Switchable 12V source for stereo

[dougmcp]

Originally Posted by cpacetti

I assume you mean the stereo as to make and model - it's a Dual, xd1222. It seems weird to me that the screen would stay lit all the time, because it's big and blue.

I would try a master reset first.
From the manual:
Press and hold for more than 2 seconds to RESET the unit upon initial installation. The RESET button is located behind the faceplate.
I think if you press the display button the time will go off.
From the manual:
Press DISP to display the clock. The radio frequency (tuner mode) and CD track/elapsed time (CD player mode) will be shown by default.
The owner's manual is here: http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xd1222.pdf

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by cpacetti

Those 2 additional spades are 12 volt? If so, how much does this cost and where can they be had?

there are 4 spades total.

Spade 1, 36 (or 48 ) volts in
Spade 2, 36 (or 48 ) volts out
Spade 3, 12v in
Spade 4, 12v out

These keyswitches can be purchased from any of our sponsors. I reccommend ScottyB.

[cpacetti]

THanks for the help guys - I had a metal toggle switch so I used that in line on the red side, works perfect. Just like turning the key off and on. I also installed a seperate deep cycle battery for the stereo and lights, but still picking up interference when I drive. Any ideas what to do about that?

[Free Spirit]

Originally Posted by cpacetti

THanks for the help guys - I had a metal toggle switch so I used that in line on the red side, works perfect. Just like turning the key off and on. I also installed a seperate deep cycle battery for the stereo and lights, but still picking up interference when I drive. Any ideas what to do about that?

Make sure the antenna and all power wires to the radio are as far away from the controller and 36V wiring as possible. The controller is the source of the interference, so the farther away, the less interference.

[cpacetti]

I'm as far as can be from the controller - the antenna is on the drivers side, as well as the battery and wire hookups. Guess I will need a filter of some kind?

[HuntinBuggie]

Here is a little tid-bit from Car Stereo Review, there is some good information:
Your answer to an in-line filter is in #10 rule....


The Ten Commandments
I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.

II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.

III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.

IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.

V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.

VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.

VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.

VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.

IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is obtained.

X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter. And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not required.