Upgrading for Speed II

[Ronman]

For fear of totally hijacking jtbird23's thread.

What I learned in his thread.

1. I can go with a two speed motor and have the option to switch from torque to speed.

2. I can rewire and go to 48V and use the same motor.

What remains is correctly identifying my cart. Although Ive been reading a bunch Im still in the dark about a few things.

What I have is a 2000 EZ 36v. It has the f/r controller below the seat. I do not see a tow/run switch under the seat. It says TXT by the key.

From what I've gathered it is a series cart. NON PDS/DCS correct?
Does this make it a controller cart or a resistor cart?

I also don't see is how it would be much cheaper to go the 48v system since the price of new batteries alone is more than what EMP is quoting on the 2 speed motor and switch kit. Add the new wires and soleniod and it's a hefty upgrade. Plus I'd be left with a set of relatively good 6 volt batteries.

My thought was this: Upgrade the to the 2 speed motor and switch now.
($325). Then, when New battery time comes upgrade to the 8 volts and new wiring, soleniod. Assuming that I have a resistor cart. If not, then the addition of the 48v controller probably makes this more expensive than I want get into. (for now)

Additional question. Will EMP's two speed motor be as easily adaptable to 48v as mine? Im assuming it is since they will be redesigning mine. I dont know if it is a swap or I have to wait for my motor to be returned.

[Ronman]

BTW scottyb, learning is half the fun!

Oh, and I can add photos if it helps with identification. Thanks

[procraftkev]

Originally Posted by Ronman

For fear of totally hijacking jtbird23's thread.

What I learned in his thread.

1. I can go with a two speed motor and have the option to switch from torque to speed.

2. I can rewire and go to 48V and use the same motor.

What remains is correctly identifying my cart. Although Ive been reading a bunch Im still in the dark about a few things.

What I have is a 2000 EZ 36v. It has the f/r controller below the seat. I do not see a tow/run switch under the seat. It says TXT by the key.

From what I've gathered it is a series cart. NON PDS/DCS correct?
Does this make it a controller cart or a resistor cart?

I also don't see is how it would be much cheaper to go the 48v system since the price of new batteries alone is more than what EMP is quoting on the 2 speed motor and switch kit. Add the new wires and soleniod and it's a hefty upgrade. Plus I'd be left with a set of relatively good 6 volt batteries.

My thought was this: Upgrade the to the 2 speed motor and switch now.
($325). Then, when New battery time comes upgrade to the 8 volts and new wiring, soleniod. Assuming that I have a resistor cart. If not, then the addition of the 48v controller probably makes this more expensive than I want get into. (for now)

Additional question. Will EMP's two speed motor be as easily adaptable to 48v as mine? Im assuming it is since they will be redesigning mine. I dont know if it is a swap or I have to wait for my motor to be returned.

I dont know a hole lot but I thought to get 48 volts you add two more 6 volt batterys?

[MotoRider420]

You could also get 6 eight-volts, but adding two 6volts works... But, your not supposed to mix old batteries with new ones... BAD BAD BAD things happen!!!

[Ronman]

Originally Posted by procraftkev

I dont know a hole lot but I thought to get 48 volts you add two more 6 volt batterys?

I dont have room for two more 6 volt batteries under my seat.

I guess that would mean a new 48v charger also. And the parts list gets longer...

[MotoRider420]

Originally Posted by Ronman

I dont have room for two more 6 volt batteries under my seat.

I guess that would mean a new 48v charger also. And the parts list gets longer...

NO NO NO NO, you can stack a 36V charger with a 12V car charger, I think it was Gornoman who showed us how to do it, do a search on it... Plus, you generally put the two extra batteries in the back, but 6 eight-volts works too... Either way, if you want speed, you gotta have money...

YAY MONEY (I wish I had some)

[Ronman]

Originally Posted by MotoRider420

NO NO NO NO, Plus, you generally put the two extra batteries in the back, but 6 eight-volts works too...

Ok, I see. That's not what I have in mind. I'll wait. I'll wait and do the battery swap.

Although Im still wondering how I figure out if I have a controller or resitor car.

[MotoRider420]

Originally Posted by Ronman

Ok, I see. That's not what I have in mind. I'll wait. I'll wait and do the battery swap.

Although Im still wondering how I figure out if I have a controller or resitor car.

oh thats easy... a resistor cart has coils (resistors)... A controller cart has a small computer...

The resistors are connected to a "speed board" which has copper contacts and a arm controlled by you gas pedal... This can be upgraded with only a heavy-duty 48V solenoid...
<<< Resistor Coils

The controller cart doesn't have coils or a speed board, it has a little box that creates an electrical signal when you press the gas... This kind needs a whole new controller...
<<< Solid State Speed Controller

[BlackHornet]

hey gorno, i noticed you said you have a stripped hub, ive run into these problems before on stock golf carts...mostly from little kids getting in it and going in reverse and then putting it in forward and hitting the gas before the car has stopped rolling backwards. anyways, i was just wondering what do the guys do that have the torque motors that offroad and stuff, how do they keep from stripping hubs?

[gornoman]

You tighten that castle nut to 125 lb ft of torque. And if the cotter pin don't line up, you tighten it more till it does.