Golf cart leaking red-ish/pink fluid underneath fan

[Jcrouch023]

Still got a small little residue coming from the front bottom side of motor. You can see the dime size amount it drips on the floor. Never anymore than that. I thought I cleaned it with enough brake cleaner by now to stop that..


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[cart around]

It's normal for the filter to look likes it's almost empty.

Is the throttle cable sliding through the lever free enough to allow wide open throttle?
I also didn't see a spring between the lever, and the ferrule that slides onto the end of the cable.

There's nothing in that engine to leak out. The fuel air mixture passes over the bearings, and gets burned. Just to be sure, you could spray some starter fluid under the engine where the cases join. A leak there would be the same as the seals leaking.

You might want to do a compression check to see if the rings seated yet.

[Dabble Inn]

[QUOTE=cart around;1604366]

I also didn't see a spring between the lever, and the ferrule that slides onto the end of the cable.

Is the throttle cable sliding through the lever free enough to allow wide open throttle?

Hi CA Sir, I'm sure you know this already but just thought I'd post it up anyway for others. And I'm sure it's still a good idea to add a spring to the back side of the lever like we do with the older ones like mine, but starting sometime after my 85 and before 88 the factory did this too (kinda). But also with this set up it's a great question to ask IF the cable is allowing the lever to go to full throttle, Because with that factory spring it changes things. So the spring action must be accounted for in the adjustment.

I took the first pic from an earlier post by the OP and got my paint can out to show others who may not know about the factory throttle cable spring.

The second/third pic is of my set up with the extra cable stop in front of the lever, That way when I floor it (which is a lot lol) I know it's floored right now rather than relying on the lever spring to do the work.

And the cable spring behind the lever along with using the blue tinted fuel line, It's nice to be able to see if the fuel is flowing during trouble shooting

[Jcrouch023]

[quote=Dabble Inn;1604543]

Originally Posted by cart around

I also didn't see a spring between the lever, and the ferrule that slides onto the end of the cable.

Is the throttle cable sliding through the lever free enough to allow wide open throttle?

Hi CA Sir, I'm sure you know this already but just thought I'd post it up anyway for others. And I'm sure it's still a good idea to add a spring to the back side of the lever like we do with the older ones like mine, but starting sometime after my 85 and before 88 the factory did this too (kinda). But also with this set up it's a great question to ask IF the cable is allowing the lever to go to full throttle, Because with that factory spring it changes things. So the spring action must be accounted for in the adjustment.

I took this pic from an earlier post by the OP and got my paint can out to show others who may not know about the factory throttle cable spring.

The second pic is of my set up with the extra cable stop in front of the lever, That way when I floor it (which is a lot lol) I know it's floored right now rather than relying on the lever spring to do the work.

And my pic also shows using the blue tinted fuel line, It's nice to be able to see if the fuel is flowing during trouble shooting

Honestly, it seems like the throttle is working perfectly fine. I do like the idea of adding another spring or cable stop, though, so I will get that added too.

I haven’t done a compression test yet, I’ll pick up a tool tomorrow if needed.

But, my cart is running and full speed and fires right up when the choke is literally pulled out maybe 1/4 of an inch, not much at all. It will fire up and go full speed in forward and reverse with that choke just ever so slightly pulled (reverse won’t even require it after running for a minute) It literally takes off like a bat out of hell...Why would that be?

Is it possible to just adjust my choke a tiny bit so I don’t physically have to reach down and nudge it? Or is that not a good idea because there is a different issue going on?

I also took a pic of my air hose again. So it’s not even connected to the air filter at the bottom because like I stated it’s a crappy rubber plumbing elbow and not the correct hose. Could that make this little bit of difference I’m having with the choke?






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[Jcrouch023]

Originally Posted by cart around

It's normal for the filter to look likes it's almost empty.

Is the throttle cable sliding through the lever free enough to allow wide open throttle?
I also didn't see a spring between the lever, and the ferrule that slides onto the end of the cable.

There's nothing in that engine to leak out. The fuel air mixture passes over the bearings, and gets burned. Just to be sure, you could spray some starter fluid under the engine where the cases join. A leak there would be the same as the seals leaking.

You might want to do a compression check to see if the rings seated yet.

Thanks cart. I did also sense spray in the spot where I thought it was leaking and it didn’t rev or do anything either. After starting it today I’m not seeing anything in that spot either, so it’s possible it’s still some of that old garbage..really need to give her a good power wash today.

Didn’t think about the rings not being seated. That would make sense. I’ll try to get a tool and do compression test this weekend.


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[Rooster59]

If there is an air leak between the filter and carburetor you have two problems. The air and fuel mix is lean and would explain the choke needing pulled slightly to enrich the mix.

The other problem is you are allowing unfiltered air (dirt) into the carb and ultimately will destroy the rebuilt engine.

[Jcrouch023]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

If there is an air leak between the filter and carburetor you have two problems. The air and fuel mix is lean and would explain the choke needing pulled slightly to enrich the mix.

The other problem is you are allowing unfiltered air (dirt) into the carb and ultimately will destroy the rebuilt engine.

So to answer my question I should definitely order the correct or at least better fitting air hose and should see the slight choke issue go away?!

Thank you!!


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[Rooster59]

Originally Posted by Jcrouch023

So to answer my question I should definitely order the correct or at least better fitting air hose and should see the slight choke issue go away?!

Thank you!!


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Conventional wisdom says yes.

[Jcrouch023]

I like conventional wisdom! [emoji3] haha. Thank you!

I had a bad feeling about that darn air hose since i noticed it initially.


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[Jcrouch023]

Just wanted to update everyone on this older thread in case you are having similar problems. Turns out the issue was the front crankshaft seal. Half of it was blown out, which is where I was losing air and the reason for the fuel/choke issue.



Even this bad of a seal passed the “spray” tests so don’t rely entirely on that.

Happy Riding!




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