Switch for 12 volt converter, 48v cart

[yawood]

Originally Posted by rthomas61

I’d rather the converter be on its own switch so I don’t have to have the cart on and still charge the phones. Just want to have a switch of some sort between the battery pack and the converter.

That's fine. Assuming you have a 30A converter that's 30A at 12V which is 360W so on the 48V side you need 7.5A to get 360W (48 x 7.5). This means that you need a switch that can handle 48V and at least 7.5A (go with at least 10A for safety). So, make sure you have a switch that can handle 48V DC and 10A and it will do what you want.

[mrgolf]

Most all switches you find at parts stores are at lease 10 A. All you need is a single pole single throw (spst) they rate them at 10A250V and up. I’ve never seen one that said DC volts.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

That's what I did, added a 48v 40A relay triggered by the Key Switch which cuts power to the 48v input to the reducer, works great.
Got 3 for $12 on Amazon.

I'd like to know where you got the 48 volt relay sir.I have never seen a relay that handled 48 volts. Well dang if it's not! I learned something this morning. I found it. This would be the way to go for this. Simple to wire to.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Automo...omotive&sr=1-3

That's a relay. 2 totally different parts.

I put a solenoid in the 48 volt side going into it.
This is on my 04 48volt PDS cart. I have the solenoid wired to cut ON/OFF with the key switch. All the lights brake lights everything runs through it.
The big cable comes off one of my 8 volts to the big terminal. Then all the lights and stuff run to where they go off the other, most to switches to turn things on. But if I forget to turn something off are the hill brake is engaged then when the key is turned off everything is off. It's simple.
PS it's wife proof to for leaving stuff on.

[Sergio]

There are big differences in construction between switches rated for AC only and DC and You should make sure you get a properly rated DC switch.

A switch rated for 15A @ 120VAC may only be good for less than 1 amp @ 48vDC.

A DC switch need to be "fast action" and have better contacts like silver coating in order to withstand the hash task of breaking DC current.

You can size the switch DC rating at different voltages based on power handling so a 20amp @ 12vDC switch is good for 5 amps @ 48vDC.

Using the proper switch will ensure reliable, safe and long life operation.

[yawood]

Here's a blog article from Mouser with the info that Sergio was talking about.

https://www.mouser.com/blog/which-sw...f-its-ac-or-dc

That switch shown in the article is rated for 15A at 30V DC which means it could handle 9.3A at 48V DC ( 15 x 30 / 48 ).

[rthomas61]

So anyone know where to get a replacement dash panel to cover the old charger plugs because I'm beginning to think this was a mistake! lol

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by rthomas61

So anyone know where to get a replacement dash panel to cover the old charger plugs because I'm beginning to think this was a mistake! lol

You already have the reducer in and working. Just put a toggle where I told you. Simple.

[Bodybagged]

Originally Posted by yawood

If you have a 4-wire voltage reducer it is best to run it through a 48V relay. You can run the relay from the key switch or you can put in an extra toggle switch so that you can turn the converter off even when the key is on.

The first diagram shows a relay and a toggle switch but you can leave out the toggle switch and just operate the relay from the key switch. The key switch (& toggle if there is one) only carries the current needed to operate the relay (a small current) and the main relay contacts carry the larger current pulled by the voltage converter.

The second picture shows the relay that you need and the connections to it.

By-the-way, if you have a cart with an OBC you should connect your 48V negative to the B- of the controller, not to the battery terminal. The Precedent has a wire specially for this purpose (a black wire with a yellow bullet connector sitting behind the batteries). This is so that the OBC recognises how much energy is being taken by the reducer and runs the charger sufficiently to replace it. Otherwise, over time the batteries will be under-charged.

Where it says -48v from relay to loom what does that mean? And where do i find the wire going to key

[yawood]

Originally Posted by Bodybagged

Where it says -48v from relay to loom what does that mean? And where do i find the wire going to key

-48V from loom means connect a wire from pin 85 on the relay to any convenient negative 48V point. Use your multimeter to find a negative point in the 48V wiring.

You supply the wire going to the key. Put a wire between the toggle switch and the "cold" side of the key switch (i.e. the side that has power only when the key is on).