Past Due, But . . . Thanks Signal_Engineer et al!

[B Swan]

I bought a converter/reducer with the key switch wire. I spliced the key switch wire and the positive input to a single wire. Then, I spliced that wire and the positive battery meter wire. I used posi-locks because they make it easier to upgrade or change later. They also make it easier to undo mistakes!

The whole set-up works perfectly. I can drive without running the accessories or run accessories without driving. The converter outputs run to a fuse block, both under the seat. The fuse block under the seat goes to terminal blocks that are in the dash. The terminal blocks, I use for smaller amp accessories. Larger amp drawing accessories are wired directly to the fuse block. I had to do a lot of labeling, but it makes the length and number of wire cables more manageble.

I have lots of other improvements I need to make, but I wanted to say thanks for the help with that bit. So . . .

Thanks!

[Cobra,1]

Good job
You won’t regret using fuse block along with eliminated battery drain when cart not in use with key switch connection.👍

FYI, please put a few wraps of electrical tape around the “posi locks”. I have seen the “flap” open up on them and cause a short frying wiring on a few jobs.

Personally use crimp/ stay con connectors with shrink wrap but both methods work😊

[B Swan]

Originally Posted by Cobra,1

FYI, please put a few wraps of electrical tape around the “posi locks”. I have seen the “flap” open up on them and cause a short frying wiring on a few jobs.

Oh, absolutely! Great advice!