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Old 06-02-2021, 08:30 AM   #1
waynek
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Question Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

I have no power to solenoid.. Have checked solenoid, f/r switch, key switch, charge port, and pedal microswitch..Im assuming now its a contoller issue.. Im needing to verify if controller is bad. I have not been able to find information on which wire to controller to test.. I have seen posts to test the "M" wire, butdont know which one that is...
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Old 06-02-2021, 10:05 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

Here is the schematic for a TXT-48
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File Type: jpg TXT 48V TCT schematic .JPG (77.1 KB, 0 views)
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:30 AM   #3
sthreatt
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

When you put the cart in RUN at the tow switch, and switch ON the key switch, then you should have battery pack voltage to the yellow wire on the solenoid. If you don't, then I think you have a problem somewhere other than the controller. The solenoid has to be grounded by the blue wire from the controller in order to engage, but if there's no power on the yellow, then there's nothing to ground.
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:27 PM   #4
waynek
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

Thanks!
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:07 PM   #5
kgsc
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

What they said. A common failure point is a sonic weld in the harness near the run tow switch. That is what powers most of the circuits
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Old 06-03-2021, 01:11 PM   #6
bronsonj
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

My Run/Tow switch had corrosion on it (I think that was the cause) flipping it back and forth a dozen times then let it have connection and my cart started working again. So I assume it was corroded and I knocked the corrosion off. But, I've not heard anyone else ever having this issue so maybe mine was a defective switch?
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Old 06-03-2021, 02:50 PM   #7
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Default Re: Curtis 1206HB diagnostics

Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsonj View Post
My Run/Tow switch had corrosion on it (I think that was the cause) flipping it back and forth a dozen times then let it have connection and my cart started working again. So I assume it was corroded and I knocked the corrosion off. But, I've not heard anyone else ever having this issue so maybe mine was a defective switch?
Or in wiggling that switch you might have also wiggled the sonic weld and re-made connection. If it quits again, look at that connection.
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