Completing 48v conversion?

[iainlbc]

Hey guys,

Through a move, newborn, and covid, my 36v pack is dead. The batteries were 4 yrs old already.

It’s a 2001 ezgo txt with an alltrax 500 and 400a solenoid, 2GA 48v pack wiring. The only other Change was replacing brake pads and installing the battery voltage meter.

Is there anything I’m missing to complete the 48v conversion other than:
- new batteries
- new charger
- programming controller

I’m going to leave the old style charging port/outlet since it seems it can handle 48v.

The motor has never been looked at but has also not any issues. Does it need to be pulled and checked out before I give it more voltage? Does suspension need to be inspected to make sure it can handle higher top speeds?

Could anyone please point me to info on programming the alltrax 500 for 48v?

Appreciate your time and help, hope you guys are having a great weekend.

-iain


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[JohnnieB]

A 2001 TXT could have a series drive or a sepex (PDS) drive and there are some differences between the two drive types when going to 48V. Which one does your cart have?

Over voltage slider should be set to max, which is typically 62V.
Under voltage slider should be set to 38V for a 48V battery pack.
KSI On voltage should be set to 16V.

You mentioned "2Ga 48V pack wiring", which could mean only the 5 cable connecting the six 8V batteries together are 2Ga. All high amp cables in the drive system ought to be the same thickness. A series drive has 13 high amp cables while a sepex drive has 10.

The leaf spring bushing in a 2001 cart probably need to be replaced.

The brakes need to be checked. Max speed of a series drive on 48V with stock height (18") tires is about 18.5MPH, but a sepex drive will do 28MPH when the motor is limited to 6500RPM and faster if the max recommended RPM is allowed to be exceeded.

Attached is a manual for programming an Alltrax XCT or SR controller. It is from 2018, so check for a later version on the Alltrax website.

[iainlbc]

Thanks so much Johnny!

The drive cables are 2G as well, it was a Scotty kit

It’s a series/non PDS.

Was thinking the same on the bushings, is it fair to assume old bushings are likely contributing to the current squeakyness over bumps?

I’ll check the pads again

Thanks again,
Iain


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[cgtech]

New 48v HD solenoid. Throw that little 36v silver can in the trash.

[JohnnieB]

Worn spring bushing can cause squeaks. So can loose roof brackets. So can loose basket and bag holder mounts.

I spent days tighten screws, nuts and bolts trying to get rid of all the squeaks.

Found a couple of bolts slightly longer the the threaded hole were deep, so what they were holding was loose although the bolt was torqued with considerable force. Also found a couple bolts with seized threads that felt tight, but actually weren't.

Ended up disassembling the roof, seat back and basket mounts, chasing the threads and making sure the bolts didn't bottom out in the threaded holes. Used blue (low strength) Loctite when I reassembled so things could be taken apart again if needed.

The roof still squeaked, so I added some adhesive back foam weather stripping between the metal supports and the plastic roof.

The cart was only 18 months old at the time, so the spring bushings were in good shape, but that was 10 years ago, so they probably need replacing by now.