New to me 2008 RXV with problems

[4wealn]

Good afternoon everyone. I am new to this forum and am looking for some advise. A couple of days ago I purchased a 2008 RXV. It was listed as needing batteries and a new key switch and that the controller needed to be re-installed. I purchased at a half decent price. I bought a new switch and batteries and installed the controller. NOTHING HAPPENS when you push the gas pedal. These are the problems I am seeing.
1. I believe that it needs a new brake on the motor. It has a lever to allow you to unlock it and push it on the motor brake. If you put the switch in tow, nothing happens and the cart cannot be pushed.
2. The rear tail lights come on all the time when the key is in R, N, or F. If I turn the switch to the off position, I can turn on the lights and the tail lights are not as bright as when the switch is on. Its like when you hit the brakes and your car tail lights come on brighter.
3. Battery charge meter does not work. A light comes on in it but it will not show charge. I bought a new one and still the same. I unplugged it and looked at the harness. There is a red, black, and grey wire. I placed a voltmeter on the red and black and I get 48V. Not sure why its not working. I figure the grey is for the light. Not sure what that light is for.


The solinoid clicks when you turn the key on, the buzzer sounds in R. I have tested the solinoid and 48v when in off position and slightly less than 48v when the key is on. I have read that is normal.

I am at a loss. I am very mechanically inclined, however carts are new to me. My kids are bugging me to get it going. I really do not want to take it to a service center.

When I purchased it the guy told me the motor and the controller were both tested and in working order.

I thank you all in advance for any help you can give me.

[usgicollector]

By the brake light staying on that does point to the motor brake like you was thinking. Buy only a OEM brake and save yourself some problems. I believe the motor brake should ohm out around 27 ohms.

[Scott quail]

when you turn the key on, the solenoid click, you should also hear the motor brake unlock and lock. its part of its fault checking. If your not hearing the brake and youll know its the brake. Its a deep sound from the rear of the cart. If your not hearing that, with the key on in N, press the brake pedal to the floor. once you press it all the way down, you should hear a click which would be the brake switch. Just something to check. If the brake switch is having problems the brake will lock down as it thinks the brake is pressed. Also, reach down and both pedals back towards the seat. Sometimes the springs get some slop and they dont fully return to close position. Pull back on both pedals then try to press the go pedal and see if it moves. Something to try thats quick and easy. Good luck.

[kgsc]

And stay away from the grey wire in the harness for the SOC. You short that and it will destroy the controller. It is part of the 5v circuit

[4wealn]

Originally Posted by Scott quail

when you turn the key on, the solenoid click, you should also hear the motor brake unlock and lock. its part of its fault checking. If your not hearing the brake and youll know its the brake. Its a deep sound from the rear of the cart. If your not hearing that, with the key on in N, press the brake pedal to the floor. once you press it all the way down, you should hear a click which would be the brake switch. Just something to check. If the brake switch is having problems the brake will lock down as it thinks the brake is pressed. Also, reach down and both pedals back towards the seat. Sometimes the springs get some slop and they dont fully return to close position. Pull back on both pedals then try to press the go pedal and see if it moves. Something to try thats quick and easy. Good luck.

I only hear the click from the solinoid. I just put my volt meter on the connection that goes to the motor brake. With the key off and in tow, it is 0v, with it on it is 0.41v and it really doesnt change if it is in tow or run. Does this sound right. I cannot find anywhere in the service manual volt or ohm readings to diagnose.

[Scott quail]

There id a thread on this forum about how to diagnose the danaher controller setup.

[Scott quail]

There is a wiring diagram in this thread. There is a pdf in this thread you can view the manual.
https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=92805

[4wealn]

Thank you very much Scott, that is an excellent document. I ohmed out the motor wires and it appears that the motor is fine. I checked the solinoid and it seems to be fine. I did check the SOC gauge, red and black give me bat voltage, grey and black only gives me roughly 3 volts, it needs to be max 4.8v if batteries are fully charged which they are. I will be checking the other 5v units as per the document tomorrow to see if I can verify that I need a new controller. I definitely know I will need a motor brake. Unfortunately for me when I figured it out I could not go get one and everything is now closed until Monday.
Anything else I need to check?

Thanks again in advance everyone.