Help.... 93 Marathon, wont do anything

[schley_cat_65]

Just installed the lift kit and went to back it out of the shop when i noticed it hesitated a little when i accelerated. I looked over the cart and saw nothing wrong, i got it out of the shop under its own power and drove it for a few minutes, when all of a sudden it shut off and will not do anything, it makes the solenoid click, but that is all, this is in both forward and reverse..... i am sick to my stomach about this, what can possibly be the problem??

I checked all of the posts and i am getting 36 volts everywhere i am supposed to be, just no wheel action, man i hope this is an easy fix... HELP

[pjmia96]

Check over your Forward and Reverse switch, Both Sides. Might have gone Bad.

[schley_cat_65]

at the same time?

I am not getting anything there either

[rib33024]

This cart does have a controller right?? how big of a lift did you put on it?? yuo may have a wire/cable that pulled loose from the motor torquing and twisting the motor and the rear axle, pulling on the wires

[schley_cat_65]

yes it has a 6" lift... it was torqing up and jumping when it would accellerate before it just stopped, i will check that first thing in the AM... could it be possible that the connections came loose from the inside of the motor??? and the controller looks like an amp a long rectangle case with 4 large bolts on the top where wires run to the motor and the f/r switch, is there a way to bypass the f/r switch to check and see if that may be my prob?

[JohnnieB]

You can trouble shoot the F/R switch with a voltmeter without having to jump anything.

Here is a drawing of the High Current circuit.

Follow the cable attached to B- terminal on controller back the the battery terminal it is connected to and attach the negative test lead of your DVM to it.

Attach the Positive DVM test lead to M- on controller.

Push the throttle until the solenoid clicks. You should read B+ (Battery Pack Voltage)

If not, move Positive test lead to A2 terminal on motor and press throttle until solenoid clicks.
If you get B+, the F/r switch or the cables are bad.

If you do not get B+, move Positive test lead to A1 Terminal on motor and pus throttle again
If you get B+, motor is bad (Brushes?)
If not, move Positive test lead to Controller side of solenoid and push throttle.
If you don't get B+, keep working back towards the B+ terminal on the battery pack until you do.

[schley_cat_65]

thanks johnnieb it is the fr switch those things are expensive, i wonder if a switch for a boat that selects which battery to use would work one like this one

you may have to right click and open in a new window... on the image