93 TXT 36V dropping power

[mkz]

JohnnieB,
Thank you for the great info! We are looking forward to some more MPH on the freedom mode setting now when I can get this other issue fixed :)

The code came up 1-1 which says check the motor ohms (which I have a multimeter but not sure how to do that. Or the controller, which the cheapest I have seen with my same numbers is $800 from EZGO or around $200 on Ebay. ANy help on determining which of these it could be would be appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

If you want more speed, install an Alltrax XCT controller. (XCT400PDS Sells for $553 with mountings bracket and 200A solenoid.)

Max speed on stock tires (18") with stock PDS controller and motor is about 18 MPH, with an XCT, the cart will do about 24 MPH on 18" tires with a stock PDS motor at 36V.

With the typical mechanical drag of a stock golf cart, a stock PDS motor will spin at about 5,600 RPM with 36V applied, but the PDS controller limits the motor to about 4,400 RPM, so it will only do about 18 MPH in Freedom Mode. The XCT controller allows the motor to rev to its maximum for the voltage applied and the drag that exists. The max RPM limit is user programmable with an XCT, so you can limit the top speed if so desired.

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To check motor Ohms, disconnect either the F1 or F2 cable at the controller and the A1 cable. Then measure between the A1&A2 studs and F1&F2 studs on the motor with an Ohmmeter. The Armature resistance will be very low and the Field windings will be a bit higher. There should be very high resistance between the A studs and the F studs and between either the A of F studs and the motor case.

[mkz]

Hi Johnnie, hopefully my health will hold out this time, sorry. Here is the resistances I found...
F1 to F2 is 1.5
A1 to A2 is 1.9
A1 to F1 is 21.8
A1 to F2 is 19.7
A2 to F1 is 20.2
A2 to F2 is 19.8
A1 to case is 21.9
A2 to case is 21.8
F1 to case is 2.2
F2 to case is .9

Does this confirm the motor is good and I need the controller? Thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If you want more speed, install an Alltrax XCT controller. (XCT400PDS Sells for $553 with mountings bracket and 200A solenoid.)

Max speed on stock tires (18") with stock PDS controller and motor is about 18 MPH, with an XCT, the cart will do about 24 MPH on 18" tires with a stock PDS motor at 36V.

With the typical mechanical drag of a stock golf cart, a stock PDS motor will spin at about 5,600 RPM with 36V applied, but the PDS controller limits the motor to about 4,400 RPM, so it will only do about 18 MPH in Freedom Mode. The XCT controller allows the motor to rev to its maximum for the voltage applied and the drag that exists. The max RPM limit is user programmable with an XCT, so you can limit the top speed if so desired.

----------
To check motor Ohms, disconnect either the F1 or F2 cable at the controller and the A1 cable. Then measure between the A1&A2 studs and F1&F2 studs on the motor with an Ohmmeter. The Armature resistance will be very low and the Field windings will be a bit higher. There should be very high resistance between the A studs and the F studs and between either the A of F studs and the motor case.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mkz

Hi Johnnie, hopefully my health will hold out this time, sorry. Here is the resistances I found...
F1 to F2 is 1.5
A1 to A2 is 1.9
A1 to F1 is 21.8
A1 to F2 is 19.7
A2 to F1 is 20.2
A2 to F2 is 19.8
A1 to case is 21.9
A2 to case is 21.8
F1 to case is 2.2
F2 to case is .9

Does this confirm the motor is good and I need the controller? Thanks for your help.

All the Ohm readings highlighted in red are bad.

As the motor brushes wear, they produce carbon dust that gets on everything inside the motor. The carbon particles eventually start touching each other and carbon is conductive, so you end up with undesired current paths through the motor in addition to the desired ones through the armature and field windings.

It may very well be that your motor just needs a thorough cleaning and a new set of brushes (and might as well replace the bearings while it is apart)

[mkz]

Well all my experience in the past was automotive engines when I used to build race cars. I have never been inside an electric motor. I am guessing I might do more harm than good if I start taking things apart being clueless with them. Would I be better off buying a new one versus having a shop around here freshen this one up? I imagine it won't be cheap either way, but my fear is taking it in somewhere I might incur the same or greater cost than buying a new one. That happened to me with a 1HP motor on my air compressor when it went bad. Took it in, and when they were done, I was $50 over the price of a new one.

[scottyb]

Brushes, Bearing, Clean Armature should cost less than 1/2 of a new motor. Then again... the cost is half way to anew bigger motor

[mkz]

Hi Scotty, I see you are a vendor. What would you have available for this cart? You are in California, I am on the other coast in GA so I am thinking the cost of shipping mine to you and then return freight would outweigh a new motor, so I guess I would be looking for new.

Originally Posted by scottyb

Brushes, Bearing, Clean Armature should cost less than 1/2 of a new motor. Then again... the cost is half way to anew bigger motor

[mkz]

Or can anyone reccommend a replacement?

[cgtech]

Know of any "alternator/generator/starter" rebuild shops in your area? They can "freshen it up" for a lower cost than a new motor (1/3 to 1/2 the price of new motor). If its ruined, they can tell you "its not cost-effective to repair". I have a motor lathe, wish i had more time to use it (i love the "nuts & bolts" of a electric motor). If the motor is beyond cost-effective repair, a new one aimed more toward your desires migjt be a pleasing investment anyhow.