Relay for voltage reducer not working

[scooterman]

Like he said don't leave it direct, it could damage more expensive parts on your cart or burn up the key switch. The relay should have a current and voltage range of operation, not knowing how much amperage the start signal on the controller is difficult to size, a good guess from someone that has used these before would help if no other documentation can be found.

[cervus]

Is there a way to test the amp draw with a DVM, or is this a bench test?

[Sergio]

My converter has a "trigger" wire, so it is wired directly to the key switch.

I do have a "kill" switch using a hidden reed switch that is activated by a magnet, that powers up a similar relay, model # G8P-1A2T-F DC48.

That relay coil is off the key switch without any problems as they usually are less than 50ma.

I only loose about .2v from the voltage taken at the pack vs the voltage on the cold side of the keyswitch.

If you are loosing that much voltage on the "hot" side, before you even turn the key switch ON and add a load, You really should check that.

The relay contact voltage rating should be at least the same as you pack voltage, and at least 1/2 the amp output of your converter..

[scooterman]

Don't all these converters have the Trigger or Power on wire? That was the same wire I was talking about, usually these triggers don't draw lots of power but without knowing what it draws I'd be leary.

[Sergio]

Unfortunately some of the inexpensive voltage converters don't have the "trigger" wire... I agree, you should always buy one that has it or the initial inrush current can be much larger than the actual operating current.

[cervus]

Originally Posted by Sergio

My converter has a "trigger" wire, so it is wired directly to the key switch.

I do have a "kill" switch using a hidden reed switch that is activated by a magnet, that powers up a similar relay, model # G8P-1A2T-F DC48.

That relay coil is off the key switch without any problems as they usually are less than 50ma.

I only loose about .2v from the voltage taken at the pack vs the voltage on the cold side of the keyswitch.

If you are loosing that much voltage on the "hot" side, before you even turn the key switch ON and add a load, You really should check that.

The relay contact voltage rating should be at least the same as you pack voltage, and at least 1/2 the amp output of your converter..

Thanks. I'll double check the voltages tonight, I'm not completely happy with where the probe was, it was tight in there. I'm not sure if I have the right relay or not. This is the one I have; http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...nge/dp/24T4842.

[Sergio]

The model numbers indicated in the data sheet should work, although none of them lists a 36v coil model...

I also have not seen any documentation where the "T9A" series relays are available with built in diodes, which is the only way to explain the coil polarity.

Are you visually getting the part# off the relay itself?

[cervus]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The model numbers indicated in the data sheet should work, although none of them lists a 36v coil model...

I also have not seen any documentation where the "T9A" series relays are available with built in diodes, which is the only way to explain the coil polarity.

Are you visually getting the part# off the relay itself?

No. Going off memory and the part number from where I ordered on ebay. I'll confirm this evening, though I'm 99.987% sure that is what I have.

[cervus]

Is there even the remotest of possibilities that I have a negative-switched cart?

[Sergio]

Maybe, what is the serial number?

Or can you point out the schematic in the stickies...