Front shock mounts G2/G9, change to fix positive camber?

[eph78]

I'm thinking of moving the top shock mount to a different position to fix some camber issues.

Has anyone done it? Pictures would be great..!

I have the basic 6" lift and there is not much you can do to fix the positive camber.

See pictures below of my situation. Can see the inner tire wear also.

[slonomo]

I know this sounds strange, but roll it backwards on the concrete driveway. Does the camber change? Does it correct it?

If so, you have a toe setting issue. Try and set the toe as close to zero as possible. Use long straight 2x4's or pipes to get it set perfectly.

Let me explain: If your toe setting is "Toed In" then when you roll the cart forward the tires want to pull inward. In other words, the tires want to track in the direction they are pointed. If they are pointed inwards, they will want to pull themselves inward. This is what creates the positive camber, they literally lift themselves up to the highest point. When you drive it backwards, they should do the exact opposite, and you will get negative camber. When you drive it in the grass you usually won't have this issue because the tires can slide more on the grass and don't push the suspension upwards. Setting the toe to zero will alleviate this issue.

If you don't see this happening, then yes, you can raise the upper shock mounting location to compensate. You can literally drill a hole above the original hole and round out/clearance the body bracket to fit around the shock. I've done it.

[eph78]

Originally Posted by slonomo

I know this sounds strange, but roll it backwards on the concrete driveway. Does the camber change? Does it correct it?

If so, you have a toe setting issue. Try and set the toe as close to zero as possible. Use long straight 2x4's or pipes to get it set perfectly.

Let me explain: If your toe setting is "Toed In" then when you roll the cart forward the tires want to pull inward. In other words, the tires want to track in the direction they are pointed. If they are pointed inwards, they will want to pull themselves inward. This is what creates the positive camber, they literally lift themselves up to the highest point. When you drive it backwards, they should do the exact opposite, and you will get negative camber. When you drive it in the grass you usually won't have this issue because the tires can slide more on the grass and don't push the suspension upwards. Setting the toe to zero will alleviate this issue.

If you don't see this happening, then yes, you can raise the upper shock mounting location to compensate. You can literally drill a hole above the original hole and round out/clearance the body bracket to fit around the shock. I've done it.

Thanks for the information, I will try it out.

[eph78]

Originally Posted by eph78

Thanks for the information, I will try it out.

Cant get the tires square even with threading the tie rods down tight. Front tires are 1.5" wider in the back then the front. I might need to cut and weld them shorter as I have no more room to shorten using the threads.

[slonomo]

Cutting and welding tie rods is a very bad idea, very dangerous. A better idea would be to install extensions onto the spindle, or install longer tie rods. Having a 1.5" different front to back could absolutely cause erratic handling and a camber problem. Worn springs will also cause a camber issue. First get that toe set to neutral zero or slightly toe in, see how that does.

[Cartmaster]

It looks like that kit has one more position for the bottom shock Mount's closer to the wheels. Try moving the shock out to that last hole. It may alter the camber enough to allow better toe and a slightly softer ride.

[eph78]

I screwed up. Need new tie rod sets. Was totally adjusting the toe in wrong... Now looking for a G2 tie rod set. Can't find any.