More Voltage Reducer questions

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by REDSLED

Ahh, thank you for the clarification. Sergio, you are truly the master of the CC Pres.

I just pay attention when TahoeDawgZ71 speaks

[REDSLED]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I just pay attention when TahoeDawgZ71 speaks

[Kashmir]

Who is this TahoeDawg you folks speak of?
Is he some kind of wizard?

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Careful now,,,, You DON'T want to upset the Gods with a question like that.

[Ken taylor]

Thanks to all of you much appreciated

[zephyrus]

Thanks Sergio.

I have bypassed the OBC and am using the DPI Accusense charger. The voltmeter I'm using is a Fluke 110. I will continue with my install tomorrow. It's good to know that I haven't goofed anything up yet.

As an aside, the LED lightbars I'm using are 72W at 9-32V. I'm using two lightbars. Can I assume that my calculations are correct that the two light bars together will be pulling 12A at 12V? (144W/12V=12A) Do you think that much amp draw will be a serious enough drain on my battery pack to warrant scaling back to a single (6A) light bar?

Light bar specs:

Power: 72W
Number of Chips: 24pcs*3w high intensity CREE LEDs
Operating Voltage: DC 9-32V
Luminous Flux: 5040lm~7200lm
Beam Type: 30 degree (spot beam) & 60 degree (flood beam) combo
Color Temperature: Pure White 6000K
Waterproof Rate: IP67
Working temperature: -40~85 degree centigrade
Dimension (with bracket): approx. 302*106*64mm/11.89*4.17*2.52inch
Material: Black Diecast aluminum housing, PC lens
Mounting Bracket: Stainless steel bracket
Above 30,000 hours life time
Certified by CE & ROHs

Everything else, (switch, wiring, reducer, etc.) is sized correctly for the load.

Thanks again.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

What brand of light bars? Unless they are high end, most are not driven at 100% Clip your meter inline with one and see how much it actually draws. The lights on my buggy draw 13 amps at 12v and it has been determined here that there is enough batt capacity to run them close to 24hrs straight before the pack is down to 50%. Your call.

[zephyrus]

The brand is Auxbeam. They were less than $30 each, so not high end. If I could run these for a couple hours, that would probably be fine.

[Sergio]

You will be fine, figure about 1/3 of the 12v amps on the 48v side or 4 amps.

That additional load will not have a significant impact on your driving time.

The lumens output appears consistent with a 72w LED load, but you can measure the current on a single light bar (your meter max is 10 amps) to get an actual current load.

The fluke 110 is a good meter, but it has only a high impedance mode (>10MΩ), which will give you false readings on open circuits due to coupled on induced stray voltage (ghost voltage readings).

The fluke 110 plus and some of the other fluke models also have a low impedance or LoZ mode (3kΩ) that helps eliminate ghost voltage readings, but you also need to be careful as it will interfere with most electronics circuits.

[slowroller85]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You are using the OBC to charge the cart, only the pack negative cable should be connected to the pack negative battery post.

The Precedent carts have a a 12ga black wire with a yellow female bullet connector inside the battery compartment that comes from Controller B- that is used for any accessory connections.

Club car DS models usually have a negative connection block off the Controller B- that is used for accessories negative connection.

All individual accessories negative wires usually terminate on a common bus and a single wire goes back to the Controller B- using the wires described above.

If your DC converter is not Isolated (most are not), the converter negative wires (48v and 12v side) will also terminate on the same common connection bus as the accessories.

This is good information but prompts a question from me. (I am new to carts and have a 2012 CC precedent) I just installed a madjax Voltage reducer and fuse block. The Madjax instructions had me wire to main positive and main negative on the pack. Is this incorrect?

Also my light kit was installed by a dealer and they have one wire from the light harness (blue wire) going to a battery negative and another (black with white strip) going to the 12 Gage black wire with the yellow bullet connector.

If I'm reading your previous post correct how could that black 12gag wire be a ground when it is supplying power? I even checked it with a volt meter.