48V 95 Club Car not moving after Upgrade

[Rstriby]

Originally Posted by Sergio

"0-5k" and "5k-0" are 2 wire throttle types (Club Car never used a "5k-0")

The correct throttle type for your CVP is the "Club Car".

That throttle needs 3 wires, 2 wires go to the Controller J4 (black or green) and J5 (Yellow), the negative wire (Purple) from the throttle needs to go to Controller B-.

Thanks Sergio!

The way you have it mentioned is the way I have it wired. With Will from Alltrax I went through various steps to get it to work including club car. We even went through multiple steps with absolute throttle. In the end he said the issue was the throttle. My ohms are all over the place. They go up and down while checking with or without the peddle depressed. As an average I am at about 8-9k ohms when not depressed then at about 2-3k when all the way in. Not the 5k-0 it should be. He said that is most like the issue.

[Sergio]

When the potentiometer inside that CVP (Continuously Variable Potentiometer) goes bad You get unusual resistance readings.

The new MCOR4 will definitely fix that issue.

The correct throttle type for the MCOR4 is also "Club Car".

You should also remove the reduced speed resistor from the FNR and wire the micro-switch to provide +48v input to the Controller Blue "Reverse" signal input.

[Rstriby]

Originally Posted by Sergio

When the potentiometer inside that CVP (Continuously Variable Potentiometer) goes bad You get unusual resistance readings.

The new MCOR4 will definitely fix that issue.

The correct throttle type for the MCOR4 is also "Club Car".

You should also remove the reduced speed resistor from the FNR and wire the micro-switch to provide +48v input to the Controller Blue "Reverse" signal input.

Thanks again Sergio!

I am not exactly following your recommendation however reading numerous of your replies I am assuming I want to do this. Can you provide more specifics or another thread to point me in the right direction. Also what does doing this mean for me?

I am sure you saw but I did upgrade the F/R switch while doing all of this. It is just the standard Heavy Duty one that Scotty B sells.

[Sergio]

Did You get the FNR model with 3 micro-switches or just 1?

If it only has 1 micro-switch, what did you do with the wires that connected to the other 2 micro-switches?

[Rstriby]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Did You get the FNR model with 3 micro-switches or just 1?

If it only has 1 micro-switch, what did you do with the wires that connected to the other 2 micro-switches?

It is the one with 3. Including a pic.

[Sergio]

That is the good model, basically instead of using the old resistor method of reducing the throttle signal for Reverse, You want to use Alltrax dedicated "Reverse Input" so You have better control of the throttle signal.


Remove the existing Reduced reverse throttle:

Disconnect the three wires from micro-switch #3 (Green, White and Black).

Connect the White and the Green wires together.

Tape the Black wire as it is not needed.

That will provide a consistent throttle signal in Forward or Reverse.

Use the micro-switch #3 to provide +48v to the Alltrax Blue "Reverse" input when the FNR is in Reverse:

Run a new wire from the micro-switch #3 where the Black wire was connected and splice it with the White/Black wire on micro-switch #1.

Run a new wire from micro-switch #3 where the Green wire was connected to the Alltrax Blue Reverse input.

The two new wires can be 16ga or even 18ga since they will not carry much current (less than 0.1amps).

[Rstriby]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is the good model, basically instead of using the old resistor method of reducing the throttle signal for Reverse, You want to use Alltrax dedicated "Reverse Input" so You have better control of the throttle signal.


Remove the existing Reduced reverse throttle:

Disconnect the three wires from micro-switch #3 (Green, White and Black).

Connect the White and the Green wires together.

Tape the Black wire as it is not needed.

That will provide a consistent throttle signal in Forward or Reverse.

Use the micro-switch #3 to provide +48v to the Alltrax Blue "Reverse" input when the FNR is in Reverse:

Run a new wire from the micro-switch #3 where the Black wire was connected and splice it with the White/Black wire on micro-switch #1.

Run a new wire from micro-switch #3 where the Green wire was connected to the Alltrax Blue Reverse input.

The two new wires can be 16ga or even 18ga since they will not carry much current (less than 0.1amps).

Ok probably a dumb question. Does doing this deactivate my reverse buzzer?

[Sergio]

No, the reverse buzzer is controlled by micro-switch #2 with Orange and Red/White wires.

[Rstriby]

10-4! Thanks for your help!

I am just hoping switching out this accelerator will fix my issues. I am still at a loss on why I never had any issues prior to upgrading and now all of a sudden I am having throttle issues. The cart was never very fast but the throttle always worked as it should.

[Sergio]

The MCOR4 is a good throttle device and will work great.

Did you put new batteries on your meter to make sure it was working properly?

Where did You measure the resistance, at the Controller end or right at the CVP under the cart?

You may want to go ahead and by-pass that 5.1kΩ resistor on the Black wire at micro-switch #3.

Just connect the Green the the White wires that go to micro-switch #3 together, You can use a automobile type blade fuse to connect the two 1/4" quick connectors together.

Measure the resistance again from pedal up to pedal down to see if still jumps all over.