G2 f/r on a solid state conversion

[jacc306]

Still trying to figure out the conversion process, not sure on how to integrate the f/r from the old ressistor set up to solid state and the specs on the controllers are all greek to me, Amps etc. Would I be better off trying to duplicate a CC or Ezgo system with a wiring diagram? I found deals on pot boxes and controllers but clueless on exactly what I need. any suggestions?
Thanks.

[trkbilder]

When I did my conversion I had to get the following; a controller, a solenoid, a pot box and a good wiring diagram for an Ezgo. I used a Curtis controller(250 amp). I ended up using the stock solenoid (I'm staying at 36 volts). The hardest part was the PB6 pot box. You have to mount it just right and then do some adjustments to get full throttle, it is a bit tricky. I had to get help to make it all go but that is basically what I did. I now have a Yamaha cart with Ezgo drive system. If you're going up in voltage, then I recommend using a HD solenoid. Oh yea, I also had to get a new set of cables custom made.

[jacc306]

Thanks! that helps alot, I'm staying 36v and just made a new set of 6g battery cables I asume those are ok, so just make 4gs for the controller? Does the controller need to be programed, and how does the existing f/r switch work in all of this?
Thanks again trkbilder

[scottyb]

Your existing F&R switching will be fine with any stock range controller. Stock controllers are 225 to 300 amps. Meaning that is all they will let through them at any time. You need a Series controller with 3 main terminals (not the old 4 terminal) You can buy a programmable controller and use it on factory default settings or you can save some money buying a non-programmable controller and solenoid package with the pb-16. You want the pot and the controller to be matched so they speak the same language... It is really pretty simple once you get the potentiometer mounted and have good peddle action. Here is a pic of typical CC mounting just to get you thinking about your PB-16 install...

[trkbilder]

That mounting looks good. I never thought of mounting mine to the frame. Looks good.
Jacc306, just do as scotty says and you should be ok.

[jacc306]

Thanks folks, checking Ebay now, found a new pot box 0-5k(chinese replacement for ezgo) for half the cost of a curtis, about to bid on the controller, used 300 amp programmable alltrax (AXE 4834). It's amazing how fast you can figure it out with a little research and alot of help from people like you! I'll keep you up on my progress.
Thanks again!

[scottyb]

Stop! Don't buy the Chinese pot It is junk.

[jacc306]

Scotty, That looks great. I dont have a center frame rail to mount to on the G2, it has a one piece, sheet metal bracket running from the rear frame cross member to the front and holds the old wiper board and ressistor. I'll probably need to weld another piece, unless I can somehow rig it up to the existing support and still have room for the controller.

[jacc306]

Ok. I know, you get what you paid for, right? I just needed someone else to slap me up side the head so I wouldn't throw my money away. I'm getting the Curtis. Whats the difference between the pb-6 and 16? not finding the 16.
thanks Scotty

[trkbilder]

Originally Posted by jacc306

Scotty, That looks great. I dont have a center frame rail to mount to on the G2, it has a one piece, sheet metal bracket running from the rear frame cross member to the front and holds the old wiper board and ressistor. I'll probably need to weld another piece, unless I can somehow rig it up to the existing support and still have room for the controller.

I used the "board" you're talking about to mount all my new stuff on. It worked pretty good but had to make a diamond plate brkt. to mount the controller. Adjusting the pot box is the hard part. Good luck!!