Any simple way to wire voltage reducer for one accessory (lights)?

[MyCousinVinnie]

I've searched all over this website and can't find what I am looking for. As the title says, I am just trying to wire a simple 48v to 12v 10 amp reducer to some lights. The reducer has four wires - a red and black input and a black and yellow output, with yellow being positive.

Common sense says I can hook the input directly up to the main battery back to get the correct input, BUT - two questions - (1) do I want an inline fuse for either one of those connections and (2) to prevent the voltage reducer from being "always on" don't I want to connect it to the key switch, at least on the positive side? That way, the voltage reducer is only receiving power when the key switch is "on?"

Then, common sense says I can also hook the output directly to my light connections, but do I again need an inline fuse?

If I do need inline fuses, should they go on the positive or negative side, and what size should they be? Thanks.

Thanks so much.

[teecro]

Originally Posted by MyCousinVinnie

(1) do I want an inline fuse for either one of those connections and (2) to prevent the voltage reducer from being "always on" don't I want to connect it to the key switch, at least on the positive side? That way, the voltage reducer is only receiving power when the key switch is "on?"

Then, common sense says I can also hook the output directly to my light connections, but do I again need an inline fuse?

If I do need inline fuses, should they go on the positive or negative side, and what size should they be? Thanks.

If according to the directions included with your reducer you do not have a trigger wire to turn the reducer on/off with the key I would NOT wire it through the key as it was not designed to carry much extra load... You could simply wire an on/off switch to the input of the reducer to turn it on off...

Fuses should always be used on the positive side, sometimes they are used on both sides (+) & (-) but the negative side is not needed. For proper coverage you need to install fuses on both the input side and output side of the reducer. Fuses/breakers are there to protect the wiring from heating up and catching fire in the event of a short. So if the reducer shorts out the fuse on the input side opens to protect your primary wiring. If your lights short out then the fuse on the output side opens to protect the 2ndary wiring. Thusly your fuses are sized to protect the wire and in your case of a small reducer I would use 14 gauge wire and 15 amp fuses on both sides unless the directions call for something else...

[Sergio]

The only thing I would add is that fuses are installed as close as practical to the source of power.

The +48v input wire fuse should be located near the battery.

[MyCousinVinnie]

There aren't any instructions. This voltage reducer was in the cart when I got it. When I rebuilt the cart and converted it to solid state, I cut out all the old/existing wiring. I took the voltage reducer out not knowing whether I would use it again. I've now installed lights and am about to reinstall the voltage reducer. I've connected it to the battery back to see if it works (it does), and am just now finalizing everything. I could buy a fancier voltage reducer, but why at this point when I am just running lights?

There is no "off" wire or trigger wire as you call as if there is on some reducers. The only reason I thought about either a switch or wiring to the key switch (or maybe the positive to the solenoid, which is only energized when the switch is on?) is that I have read that these VRs can draw current (right word?) even when everything is off.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Sergio]

You can either put the light switch on the +48v side of the converter and wire the lights straight to the converter +12v output, or use a relay to turn the converter ON/OFF from key the switch (you can still add an addtional on/off light switch on the 12v side).

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1259698

[dundeebarnbuggy]

If you are only running lights with it, why not put your light switch [I assume you are using a switch] in the power [+] side of the input for the power supply. That way when the lights are off the reducer is off too.

[MyCousinVinnie]

I am using a switch. It's just one of those pull-type switches that come with light kits. The switch has only two tabs on it. I assume on one side, I would bring the power in from the positive side of the battery pack and then on the other take it to the positive input on the voltage reducer? Where would I put the inline fuse? close to the battery pack again?

Where would the two wires currently going into the switch go, then?

Then negative "input" from VR would go to negative battery pack. And a fuse on the output of the voltage reducer?

Sorry for all the questions.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Sorry Sergio, guess we typed posts at the same time! On to the question, everything you planned would be good. Just confused about the 2 wires you mentioned coming from the switch?

[MyCousinVinnie]

My lights came with a wiring harness. There are two wires with female connectors on them that currently plug into the light switch, one on each side, and then two wires (one pos, one negative) for a power connection that have o-rings (presumably thinking someone is going to connect to two six volts, or use a separate battery I guess). Then, of course, you have the four connections for the four lights (headlights and tail lights). it looks kind of like the attachment, but without whatever that plug or relay looking thing is on the positive wire on the far left:

I hope that explanation makes sense.

[Sergio]

Since You don't have a lot of experience with electrical wiring, I would recommend not having a 48v switch on the dash.

The device on the far left is the fuse holder and fuse.

Connect the two wires on the far left to the +12v output of your converter.

Connect your converter +48v input directly to pack positive, the negative should go to Controller B-.

You should add a fuse on the +48v converter wire near the pack positive battery post.

The converter will not draw enough current when idle to be a concern during regular use, for long term storage you can remove the fuse.

The best option would be to wire a relay like the link I posted, that way you know power is off to lights and any other accessory when the key is OFF.