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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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#1 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wildwood, FL
Posts: 742
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![]() I have a set of wood ramps for loading the buggy in and out of the truck. As you know its very important with only 2wd to secure the ramps when loading because once half way on the back tires can spin the ramp off.
But I've unloaded many times with out securing the ramps, until this past wknd. ![]() This extrusion is welded to the bottom of the I-beam frame. It doesn't appear that it can be rewelded without disassembling the body and everything on it (canopy, rear seat, extra batteries, hitch). Have you seen this repaired without all this headache? I'm thinking of welding a flat piece to it with an angle brace and bolting it back to the frame. Doing it this way should be quite stronger than it currently is/was. |
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#2 | |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wildwood, FL
Posts: 742
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![]() Quote:
I was aware of disconnecting the batteries but have never heard of removing the controller to weld. |
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#3 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: East Texas
Posts: 602
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![]() Can you post some pics? Glad you are OK. I have seen people doing this a thousand times with a buggie, 4-wheeler, mowers ect and it only takes the ramps slipping one time to teach us a lesson. I broke down and bought a 15' trailer with a drop gate for that reason. It turns out to be cheaper in the long run vs injury and damage. Bet you don't do that again!
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#4 | |
What the ....?
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: N.E. Wisconsin
Posts: 14,390
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![]() Quote:
and you have to connect the negative side of the welder to the frame to weld... Hmmmm... I'm just saying "it's better to be safe... then sorry" I don't have a problem if someone corrects me if I'm wrong! (or "overprotective" of your D&D 500 amp controller) my .02 ![]() |
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#5 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wildwood, FL
Posts: 742
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![]() What I'm thinking is getting it back in place and welding it, then welding the brace in place. All this with out removal of the body.
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#6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 26
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![]() Actually.I misunderstood what was broken on your cart.I have repaired some that the frame itself broke away with the shackle still welded to it.For some reason,even in your photo,you can see there are slots in the frame extrusion.The ones I repaired broke at those slots.Sounds like you have a plan to get yours fixed.You're right to watch the heat generated by welding.The aluminum will transfer that heat,and damage body componets,spacers,bushings etc.I unhook everything to.I just won't chance frying sombody elses stuff(I realize you are fixing your cart).Let us know how it works.
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#7 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: East Texas
Posts: 602
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![]() Man, that's a heck of a brake! If you can't weld it or don't trust it after you fix it, you can pick up a scrap DS for $100 bucks or so and just swap everything to the mew frame.
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#8 | |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wildwood, FL
Posts: 742
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#9 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: La Porte Indiana
Posts: 1,392
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![]() for the hour or so it would take i would pull the body and inner fender. i think you will spend less time in the long run vs trying to work around it all. plus it will be much easier to clean and manuver the welding torch/gun around.
just my .02 -Aaron |
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#10 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wildwood, FL
Posts: 742
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![]() 4vertical if that Ford emblem in your avatar was on the real thing, it would probably be quite mesmerizing.
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