2004 CC Precedent Rebuild

[rawrob51]

I am in the process of rebuilding a stripped down 2004 Precedent. Pretty excited to get it on the road and see what she'll do.

Upgrades include:
Admiral MOT-A4 Motor
Alltrax XCT48500 IQ Controller
MZJ-400 Solenoid
Jakes Lift kit
DPI Charger

Something I ran across I was hoping you guys could help with. Since the cart is stripped, it is missing the run/tow switch. Is is necessary to install a new one? As long as I disconnect the battery pack before working on it or towing it, is it necessary to have one?

Btw, props to the guys that run this site and offer help. I have gained a wealth of knowledge and help just from reading the past few weeks!

[Rayferd]

Im not 100% but if that Alltrax is programmed to be a drop in unit and operate like the factory curtis, the run/tow may be needed.

[Htownblue]

How does this cart not have a run tow switch?

[rawrob51]

There was nothing left of the insides when I purchased the cart. Was basically just a frame. Someone had completely stripped it down to convert to a gas cart and then sold it to me after they gave up.

I know this cart has them from the factory, just wondering if it is necessary to replace or if the cart will function properly without it.

[scottyb]

Howdy Raw- the cart will work just fine without the R/T switch..... and in fact the Alltrax XCT may not really need it. Unlike the frail OEM control the robust XCT with reverse polarity protection can take a pretty good hit and keep on ticking. I've seen a customer connect a direct high amperage short to the solenoid blowing the top off of it........ and not hurt the controller.
Of course, that doesn't mean you should test her limits... it's just good to know you have a bit of a buffer when it comes to mistakes.

[Sergio]

I agree that it will function correctly, but adding a switch is not that much work and it has many advantages:

If the cart stops running for any power reason, it will be easier to forget to disconnect the batteries before towing and that could still burn the motor and overheat the controller.

You likely will be doing more accessories and wiring behind the dash so it is nice to just flip to tow to cut the power.

There should also be a fuse wired to the tow/run switch to prevent a harness meltdown in case of a short anywhere in the power system.

Since You don't have an OBC, just put a 15amp inline fuse where it is easily accessible from the battery compartment and add a 20amp SPST toggle switch (with boot).

You can connect the inline fuse to the Solenoid big post on the battery side.

[rawrob51]

Awesome! Thanks for the response. Any tricky tricky wiring that would accompany this or can I just disregard the two wires that connect to the R/T switch?

If that's all there is to it and I don't have to wait on a switch I should have this thing wired up by the end of the week and ready for a test run by the end of the week!

[rawrob51]

Good point Sergio. Forgive my confusion, but is the toggle switch to replace the R/T switch or I need it AND the switch?

[Sergio]

You just need one switch.

The Run/Tow switch is just a SPST switch you can pick up at Walmart or an auto parts store, the 12v rating is fine for this application.

[rawrob51]

Good deal. I think I'll throw one in there since cost will be minimal and hopefully will save me a headache down the road.