Help an old fool out with his TXT

[BobBoyce]

No, it means that power is getting to and passing through the solenoid... Your controller is supposed to connect the negative small terminal to pack negative in order to activate the solenoid. You can jumper it to pack negative yourself to test it and see if it clicks and passes pack + to the controller B+ terminal. Make sure to jumper the correct terminal, because otherwise you'll burn out any microswitches in the path...

[mgray70]

I think he said it was a series cart. If so and he has voltage on the small post to the solenoid, it should click if the solenoid is good.

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

No, it means that power is getting to and passing through the solenoid... Your controller is supposed to connect the negative small terminal to pack negative in order to activate the solenoid. You can jumper it to pack negative yourself to test it and see if it clicks and passes pack + to the controller B+ terminal. Make sure to jumper the correct terminal, because otherwise you'll burn out any microswitches in the path...

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[55BigBlock]

Originally Posted by mgray70

I think he said it was a series cart. If so and he has voltage on the small post to the solenoid, it should click if the solenoid is good.

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That is what I'm thinking.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by 55BigBlock

Back on the TXT. I have jumped the ignition switch, jumped the micro switch (broken roller) in the pedal box, and jumped the reed switch in the charger receptacle. I have pack voltage on the small posts of the solenoid. Based on Orangeman6's earlier post, am I correct in assuming the solenoid is bad?

He typed posts, not one post... Hence my response was based upon what was typed. If there is B+ on both posts, then there is missing B-. So the solenoid cannot activate, likely a bad B- connection instead of a bad solenoid. Not a lot of those old controllers are still in operation. If the controller was upgraded, the wiring may differ a bit from the diagram.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by 55BigBlock

Back on the TXT. I have jumped the ignition switch, jumped the micro switch (broken roller) in the pedal box, and jumped the reed switch in the charger receptacle. I have pack voltage on the small posts of the solenoid. Based on Orangeman6's earlier post, am I correct in assuming the solenoid is bad?

If you have voltage on the + side small terminal, run a wire from pack neg. to the other post. If it clicks, the problem is at B- as Bob has suggested.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

He typed posts, not one post... Hence my response was based upon what was typed. If there is B+ on both posts, then there is missing B-. So the solenoid cannot activate, likely a bad B- connection instead of a bad solenoid. Not a lot of those old controllers are still in operation. If the controller was upgraded, the wiring may differ a bit from the diagram.

I just thought that you were thinking it was a sepex drive when you said the controller was responsible for sending the B- to the solenoid.
I'll clarify my comment. If he has voltage "between" the two small post on the solenoid when the pedal is pressed, and the solenoid doesn't click, then I would suspect a bad solenoid. It's not it could be missing the B-.

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[55BigBlock]

Thanks for all the help. I will watch my wording. Here are my findings.:

With the reed switch jumped, micro switch in pedal box jumped (broken actuator), and the key switch on, I have pack voltage across the 2 small terminals on the solenoid.

If I take the jumper off the micro switch in the pedal box, I have nothing at the solenoid.

If I run a jumper from the negative side of the pack to the negative side of the solenoid, I get nothing.
Pressing the pedal makes no difference.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by 55BigBlock

Thanks for all the help. I will watch my wording. Here are my findings.:

With the reed switch jumped, micro switch in pedal box jumped (broken actuator), and the key switch on, I have pack voltage across the 2 small terminals on the solenoid.

If I take the jumper off the micro switch in the pedal box, I have nothing at the solenoid.

If I run a jumper from the negative side of the pack to the negative side of the solenoid, I get nothing.
Pressing the pedal makes no difference.

You need a new pedal micro switch for sure, I also think your solenoid is bad. With the rear wheels off the ground, jump across the large terminals of the solenoid with a heavy gauge battery cable to see if the wheels will turn.

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[scottyb]

To be sure and clear - remove the pre-charge resistor. Any way you like supply positive to one small solenoid post and negative to the other small solenoid post. The solenoid should have CLICKED and closed.
Before the click 48v (or 36) at one big post ( cable connecting to the battery pack)
After the click 48v (or 36) at both big posts

If yes to all conditions above the solenoid is okay fix the activation circuit starting with the bypassed pedal switch.

[55BigBlock]

Originally Posted by mgray70

You need a new pedal micro switch for sure, I also think your solenoid is bad. With the rear wheels off the ground, jump across the large terminals of the solenoid with a heavy gauge battery cable to see if the wheels will turn.

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I've got a micro switch on the way. That is another issue I'm going to have to deal with. I initially replaced the switch and because of misalignment it immediately broke when the pedal was pushed the first time. I've looked at scottyb's sticky on ITC internal adjustment. Since there is voltage across the solenoid coil, I can't see any other conclusion except bad solenoid.