2013 RXV - 6 month old batteries not holding charge?

[nickdalzell1]

The reducer the OP has I've seen actually explode under load taking out the controller. They don't handle an awful lot and can drain batteries as it runs whether the accessories are in use or not.

30-amp switched reducer is the way to go. It allows expansion later should you choose to use a radio or under body lights or such. Plenty of usable load. RXVs don't play friendly with lights/accessories hooked to one battery or a reducer that takes 2 and makes 12v out of it (16 to 12 v reducer) as it creates an unbalanced battery SoC

[BobBoyce]

If the little 120 Watt reducer is left on all of the time, it will cause the battery pack to drain. Even with the lights off. Those reducers are of low quality and low efficiency. They draw way more idle current than the higher cost 20A or 30A reducers. If you rewire it to draw its power from the controller B+ side of the solenoid, that will stop the parasitic power loss when the key is off.

[drhill]

I'm recharging without the reducer hooked up now. Seems like we found the issue. Glad this post is up here to save others the potential hassle. I'll be buying the better reducer.

You guys are on point with the advice and help!

[yurtle]

Well worth the price of admission.

[wingnut2000]

I have my cheap reducer wired to the solenoid would I still be better off getting the more expensive reducer to help my battery life? hopefully this reducer hasn't ruined the batteries

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by drhill

I'm recharging without the reducer hooked up now. Seems like we found the issue. Glad this post is up here to save others the potential hassle. I'll be buying the better reducer.

You guys are on point with the advice and help!

[wingnut2000]

Originally Posted by wingnut2000

I have my cheap reducer wired to the solenoid would I still be better off getting the more expensive reducer to help my battery life? hopefully this reducer hasn't ruined the batteries

???????

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by wingnut2000

???????

You should be Ok since you said that you have yours wired to the solenoid. They do tend to draw about 25% more than the better ones while operating, but at least there is no parasitic drain all of the time when the key is off. I've bought a few of those 120W reducers for carts with simple LED light kits. On the newer RXV I will be building, I will be using the factory E-Z-GO 30 Amp reducer and reducer harness that I bought to go with the Accessory harness.

The 2Five I bought has an onboard QuiQ charger with built-in 30 Amp reducer. I have yet to test it, weather here has been either wet or icy for a long time.

Bob

[wingnut2000]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

You should be Ok since you said that you have yours wired to the solenoid. They do tend to draw about 25% more than the better ones while operating, but at least there is no parasitic drain all of the time when the key is off. I've bought a few of those 120W reducers for carts with simple LED light kits. On the newer RXV I will be building, I will be using the factory E-Z-GO 30 Amp reducer and reducer harness that I bought to go with the Accessory harness.

The 2Five I bought has an onboard QuiQ charger with built-in 30 Amp reducer. I have yet to test it, weather here has been either wet or icy for a long time.

Bob

They draw 25% when driving cart with no accessories on or only when they are on

[BigOL3]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

You should be Ok since you said that you have yours wired to the solenoid. They do tend to draw about 25% more than the better ones while operating, but at least there is no parasitic drain all of the time when the key is off.
Bob

I have the same 10amp reducer, for only the past week. I just installed a volt meter in the dash. Today I backed the cart out of the shop to clean the shop out. It sat outside most all day and the volt meter did not show any drop, MoF it climbed up to 51.5 and stayed there all afternoon. I ASSUME if there was a problem, the volts would have been dropping ...... correct???