Cables are hot, forward good, reverse stutter

[dman19709]

Check what the battery pack voltage is dropping to when driving cart.
It drops to 35v.

All batteries are brand new, all measured 6.4v

Test times
10 min sitting still
10 min up on blocks
10 min driving
After I did all those tests, I plugged in the charger and it read 50%.
Does this explain anything?

How do you explain the super hot wires from controller B+ to solenoid to A2?

[Cobra,1]

Sorry if I missed it, but you mention batteries are new. What brand and size?
How many amp hours rating. Are they golf cart batteries or regular deep cycle batteries?
Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by dman19709

Check what the battery pack voltage is dropping to when driving cart.
It drops to 35v.

All batteries are brand new, all measured 6.4v

Test times
10 min sitting still
10 min up on blocks
10 min driving
After I did all those tests, I plugged in the charger and it read 50%.
Does this explain anything?

How do you explain the super hot wires from controller B+ to solenoid to A2?

Heat is generated when amps pass through resistance, so those cables or their ring terminals have excessive resistance, or a very high number of amps are being drawn by the motor.

What gauge are those two cables?
Does the cable from controller M- to motor A1 also get hot?

What are the make and model of the batteries?

[dman19709]

The cables are 2awg.
Does the cable from controller M- to motor A1 also get hot? = NO.
The batteries are U.S. Battery Deep Cycle 6v, amp hours(20 hr. rate)=220

I have had 4 golf cart repair guys look at this, they tried replacing the controller, mtr, solenoid, but not the wires, and the same thing happen. They were stumped. I replaced the wires hoping to solve this, nope!

Again thanks for your input.

[Sergio]

Don't forget to also check the Field wires (pull on the wires to make sure they are firmly crimped to the connectors).

If the motor does not have enough field current the Armature will use a lot more current and not be able to develop much torque.

[JohnnieB]

Check the F1/F2 wires as Sergio suggests.

If they are okay, try this:

Move the M- to A1 cable to the controllers B+ terminal, which also has short cable from the solenoid's controller side large terminal.

Move the cable from the solenoid's controller side large terminal to the controller's M- terminal.

At the controller, move the F1 wire to the F2 terminal and move the F2 wire to the F1 terminal.

(The direction of current flow has now been changed in both armature and field, so the direction of cart travel should still match the F/R selector lever.)

Drive cart and check which cables get warm and if it still stutters in reverse.

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The same number of amps flow in both of the high current cables to the motor's armature, so they should both heat up the same amount if they are both 2Ga cables. And being 2Ga cables, neither should get much more the slightly above air temperature with a stock DCS controller.

[dman19709]

Should I run new F1 & F2?
What gauge should I use?

[JohnnieB]

Max amps on the F1/F2 wires is 30A, and much less than that most of the time, so 10Ga is sufficient.

Unless the insulation is worn, the connectors are corroded, or the wires are damaged, there is no need to replace the F1/F2 wires.