Robbin EH29C broken rod - Do I need a full Rebuild kit?

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Got the valve guide out and ordered a new guide...sounds like I need to re-cut the valve seat when the new guide goes in...doesn't seem like that should be necessary. Will I need to ream the new guide? Possible to just do an extensive lap job on it to get the new valve to seat? Maybe use the old valve to do the initial "cut", and the new valve to seat it? Any thoughts? Any "do it yourself" tricks to install the new guide and cut the valve seat?

I would use a press to install the new guide or better yet let a machine shop do it for you. Ezgo has a tool to do it with but a good machinist would be able to get it in for you.

If that is not an option then you could do it but you have to be careful you don't mushroom it when installing. You need the right tool to do this with so you don't mess the new one up.

You could put it in the freezer a day before you get ready to install it if you do decide to do the job. It will go in easier that way.

I also wouldn't think you need to be cutting the seats. Just put the new valve in and use lapping compound to seat it. Look for that thin line in middle of valve when you get it lapped. Make sure you clean the lapping compound off good when you are finished.

[JPonLKN]

Thanks Trig...good idea ...I will put the guide in the freezer, use a torch to heat up the head at the valve hole...I have a 12 ton press, so no issue there, but as soft as these guides are, I am concerned about messing up the face. Shouldn't be a problem if I press in from the bottom. I will use a straight edge and dial indicator to set it at the same height as the other guides. Hopefully it is straight enough to just need to lap the seat and not have to grind it. I don't know any machine shops around here...we have a grand total of two traffic lights in town. We are close to Race City USA so I am sure there are some around. I am gonna press the new guide in and see how close the valve is before I hunt one out. Wish the manual said to be careful with the screw drive getting the seal out...just need to grab the top of the seal. Those guides are easy to damage.

[trig123]

Good deal. It would be nice if you had something that would fit inside the guide when pressing it in.
Thanks for the heads up on breaking these guides. I will be more careful next time I work on one. I didn't realize they would break that easy.

[JPonLKN]

where do I find that tool? Wish I had that pressing the old one out. Used a socket over the old valve from below.
Yeah, the manual says use a small screw driver to pry the seal off...doesn't say that the guide is fragile. I expected them to be like bearing seals. These seals come out so easy, just need to grab the top of the seal...I suspect needle nose pliers grabbing the top of the seal might be safer...I thought the seal was stuck, but the screw driver was down in the guide hole. Never would have guessed I could break one. I'll post a couple pics of the carnage in a minute. **** thing would have been running this evening if it wasn't for my ham fistedness. Another week, some cash, and hopefully no trip to a machine shop. We will see.

[JPonLKN]

Oops! Too deep with the screw driver....doh!

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

where do I find that tool? Wish I had that pressing the old one out. Used a socket over the old valve from below.
Yeah, the manual says use a small screw driver to pry the seal off...doesn't say that the guide is fragile. I expected them to be like bearing seals. These seals come out so easy, just need to grab the top of the seal...I suspect needle nose pliers grabbing the top of the seal might be safer...I thought the seal was stuck, but the screw driver was down in the guide hole. Never would have guessed I could break one. I'll post a couple pics of the carnage in a minute. **** thing would have been running this evening if it wasn't for my ham fistedness. Another week, some cash, and hopefully no trip to a machine shop. We will see.

Not sure where to find one but I wold try my best if I were to use something like this to install the guide. I got a good friend who does my machine work for me . He could make one of these guide installers in no time. If I think of somewhere that might have an installer I will post back.

[JPonLKN]

Assuming I won't need to ream the new guide, I will use the old valve and a small socket covering the taper and carbon build up, use the flat end of the socket facing the guide, and press it in. The big flat valve will help keep it square on the press cylinder, the valve shaft will keep it straight, and the socket should provide a good press surface on the guide...This is all redneck build here! LOL

If anyone has replaced one of these guides in the past, do we need to ream the new valve guide?

[JPonLKN]

Well, got the new guide, measured the three other guides to match the depth, and they were all off by a little, so this one ended up going in right between the high and low of the rest, so should be fine. Seal sits up on it nicely. Valve shaft is straight and the valve laps nicely to the existing valve seat, so should be good to go. Hopefully, will get some time tonight to get the cam and valves back in, get the head on. Won't have time to get it back in the cart tonight, but likely a running cart by end of the week if all goes well. Wish me luck.

If this motor doesn't work, I have a racing 212cc that should be about the same HP...or a little more. Will need to find a 3/4" adapter for the clutch though if I go this route. Motor came with a racing bar stool I picked up that has a stock predator 212 in it already. The golf cart will be competing for my time as the RBS needs some love.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Well, got the new guide, measured the three other guides to match the depth, and they were all off by a little, so this one ended up going in right between the high and low of the rest, so should be fine. Seal sits up on it nicely. Valve shaft is straight and the valve laps nicely to the existing valve seat, so should be good to go. Hopefully, will get some time tonight to get the cam and valves back in, get the head on. Won't have time to get it back in the cart tonight, but likely a running cart by end of the week if all goes well. Wish me luck.

If this motor doesn't work, I have a racing 212cc that should be about the same HP...or a little more. Will need to find a 3/4" adapter for the clutch though if I go this route. Motor came with a racing bar stool I picked up that has a stock predator 212 in it already. The golf cart will be competing for my time as the RBS needs some love.

Good work. Hope you have it running soon.
Just don't do like I did back in the late 90's when putting one of these back together. I put the camshaft and rockers in head and low and behold there are bolts under them that has to be tightened first. Look good on bench though.
I just read your post where you said you was going to get the cam and valves back in then put your head on lol Put that head on first

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by trig123

Good work. Hope you have it running soon.
Just don't do like I did back in the late 90's when putting one of these back together. I put the camshaft and rockers in head and low and behold there are bolts under them that has to be tightened first. Look good on bench though.
I just read your post where you said you was going to get the cam and valves back in then put your head on lol Put that head on first

If anyone can miss a bolt, its me. Now you got me worried. Other than the cylinder head bolts inside the head, are there others I am missing? There are 7 head bolts, already torqued down, 1/2 spec first, full spec second. Ran through same full spec again same order to be sure.

Yes, head is on...cam will be next, then rocker assembly. I am going in order through the reassembly manual...not sure I will get time again to work on it till this weekend....ugh! I was hoping to get the cam and rocker assembly in tonight...no such luck.

As a heads up for anyone else that gets a rebuild kit in the future, they do seem to come with head gaskets for both 295 and 350 heads. The 295 gasket is the smaller diameter bore...just compare the two. Mine happened to be the white head gasket...silver one is extra part. JUST AN FYI. LOL