Alltrax Install question txt48

[subm13]

Hi All,

Just bought a new Alltrax xct 500a. My cart is a 2012 txt 48.
Edit figured this out: I’ve got a 4 pin connector I don’t know where it goes. It used to plug into the old Curtis controller next to the big connector. Is it not needed?

This is the program connector. Guess it’s not needed.

Still not sure on this part:
Also I didn’t take a picture of my solenoid before I took it apart ( stupid ). I’ve got a yellow and a blue which are on the wiring diagram, but I also have a red one coming from the same loom. Should I just assume the red goes on the battery side of the solenoid?

I’ve attached pictures of the connector and the solenoid wires in question

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
-r

[subm13]

Hooked up everything the way the diagram has it. Hooked the small red to the battery side of the solenoid.

First I got pre-charge failure. Swapped the small wires on the solenoid.

No I get output short. 1 green 1 red every time I hit the throttle. The solenoid clicks and then nothing.

Disconnected the m- and I still get the same error code.

It’s a brand new controller. What could I possibly have wrong? I’ve traced all the wires and everything looks correct. Any help is appreciated!

[scottyb]

That small red wire should be on the big post with the battery main + cable. Not sure if that was where you were saying you put it.

[subm13]

Hi Scotty,

I did connect the red to the big post.

I diode checked the controller and all looks good. I did a continuity test on the motor. F1 and A1 show continuity, and F2 and A2 show it as well. Is this normal? Plum quick had a page that shows this as being bad.

I don’t quite understand if the motor is bad what happened. I was pretty sure I fried my Curtis controller changing the battery, but would that have taken out the motor also?

Thanks!

[Volt_Ampere]

You should not have continuity between either F1 , F2 and either A1, A2. F1 to F2 is low ohms and A1 to A2 is low ohms on a good motor. But F1 to A1 or A2 should be open circuit and F2 to A1 or A2 should be open circuit.

[subm13]

I forgot to hit the tow switch when changing my battery pack. I’m assuming I had fried my controller, would that also have damaged the motor?

I’ll double check all the terminals again, thanks for the help!

[Volt_Ampere]

That should not have damaged your motor. The usual damage is by turning the terminals when installing cables. You have to be careful when installing / removing cables from motor terminals that you do not turn the post itself when wrenching on it.

One other thing - you should not have continuity from any of the motor posts (A1,A2,F1,F2) to the motor case.

[scottyb]

The motor terminals have a nut below and above the cable lug. The bottom lug is snugged tight at the factory. As mentioned it should not move. Use 2 wrenches when removing and installing the cables. Use the bottom wrench to hold the base nut and stud from turning.
Remember this is an electrical connection NOT a wheel lug nut!

[subm13]

Well…that’s explains how I got here.

I did just install new cables. And I didn’t use a second wrench on the posts.

So now the question is, is it possible to fix what I screwed up? I assume that I turned the post and now messed up something internally.

[Volt_Ampere]

Yes it's possible to fix it but you will have to take the motor out and disassemble it. Depending on what post spun, you can probably fix it. Lesson learned.