G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in

TimKarp · 08-13-2010, 06:10 AM

The cart runs ok but after the tune up I will be able to tell better. I guess this is my fault for not inspecting the cart more when I bought it. I'm going to try to temporarily fix it to get me through the summer, then winter time have someone weld or replace the case (ideas on case replacement cost??). I bet the guy I bought off new this was an issue... to bad I paid a lot for the cart and have purchased over $1,300 worth of parts for it in the past 2 weeks. Oh well... I will get it running good and fixed and have my Yami driving all over our lake community. This is all a learning experience. Thanks everyone!

TimKarp · 08-13-2010, 11:45 AM

maybe I should NOT switch to AMS oil at 9.99 a quart. I run it in my sled now instead.

rib33024 · 08-13-2010, 11:55 AM

YouTube- Thread repair

TimKarp · 08-13-2010, 12:22 PM

my crack is in my engine case

rib33024 · 08-13-2010, 12:35 PM

Mike Mac · 08-13-2010, 09:42 PM

Tim, I'd let the oil drain out of it for 3 or 4 hours. Then I would spray brake cleaner into and around the threads on both the case and the bolt/plug. Then I would put a small amount of silicone around the plug and screw it back into the case. Let it sit a couple hrs. and put oil back in it. Silicone may seal it for the season, then after season, I would take the motor to a speed shop or machine shop and I bet they can fix it. You don't need a new block.
I was thinking if the motor needs rebuilding, it could be repaired even easier apart.

BigBlockMan · 08-13-2010, 10:18 PM

I have done a permanent fix for exactly same problem. It was 4 years ago so details are a little fuzzy. But if your looking at it should make sense. It does involve removing side cover, But its been 4 years and still holding.

Drain oil
Remove clutch and side cover
Clean hole with brake clean from inside and outside.
Get new drain plug from auto parts store (it will have a flange)

THIS IS WHAT CAUSED THE WHOLE PROBLEM ON THIS ONE. THE CUSTOMER HAD CROSSED THREADS ON ORIGINAL PLUG....SO HE WENT TO PARTS HOUSE TO BUY A NEW PLUG. THEY HAVE REPLACEMENT PLUGS IN REGULAR SIZE AND A TAPERED OVERSIZE PLUG FOR A STRIPPED HOLE. HE ACCIDENTLLY BOUGHT THE OVERSIZE. WHEN HE FORCED IT IN IT SPLIT THE DRAIN HOLE JUST LIKE YOURS.

OK back to the fix.
Install o ring on new drain plug
Coat threads on plug and inside of hole with regular JB weld
Screw in the drain plug from INSIDE and tighten snug
Allow JB to dry overnight
I then drilled and tapped a hole in low oil sensor for new oil drain location.
Clean everthing up install side cover gasket and cover and add clutch
Fill with oil and your good to go.

sabercat · 08-15-2010, 09:26 AM

i had this same crack on my g9, from over tightening the drain plug. when i was changing the oil i cleaned the crack with brake cleaner a jb welded it and put a little gas/oil resistant teflon tape on the drain plug just in case. never leaked since.

other thing you could do, and i was going to do this before i thought of the jb weld. have a welding shop put a real light bead of weld there. a light bead of TIG fuze should work nicely. Might have to disconect the batt and engine grounds to protect the electronics, i'm not too sure on that.

TimKarp · 09-08-2010, 08:47 PM

sabercat... I did the same....when i was changing the oil i cleaned the crack with brake cleaner a jb welded it and put a little gas/oil resistant teflon tape on the drain plug just in case. Hasnt leaked since.

sabercat · 09-14-2010, 09:01 PM

yup i just go easy on the plug torquing. also i WOULD switch to a full synthetic name brand oil, good idea when running these little motors at higher rpms tghen there used to.

08-13-2010, 06:10 AM	#11
TimKarp Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Livoni MI Posts: 157	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in The cart runs ok but after the tune up I will be able to tell better. I guess this is my fault for not inspecting the cart more when I bought it. I'm going to try to temporarily fix it to get me through the summer, then winter time have someone weld or replace the case (ideas on case replacement cost??). I bet the guy I bought off new this was an issue... to bad I paid a lot for the cart and have purchased over $1,300 worth of parts for it in the past 2 weeks. Oh well... I will get it running good and fixed and have my Yami driving all over our lake community. This is all a learning experience. Thanks everyone!

08-13-2010, 11:45 AM	#12
TimKarp Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Livoni MI Posts: 157	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in maybe I should NOT switch to AMS oil at 9.99 a quart. I run it in my sled now instead.

08-13-2010, 12:22 PM	#14
TimKarp Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Livoni MI Posts: 157	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in my crack is in my engine case

08-13-2010, 12:35 PM	#15
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in -

08-13-2010, 09:42 PM	#16
Mike Mac G8 Specialist Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Phoenix Posts: 7,799	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in Tim, I'd let the oil drain out of it for 3 or 4 hours. Then I would spray brake cleaner into and around the threads on both the case and the bolt/plug. Then I would put a small amount of silicone around the plug and screw it back into the case. Let it sit a couple hrs. and put oil back in it. Silicone may seal it for the season, then after season, I would take the motor to a speed shop or machine shop and I bet they can fix it. You don't need a new block. I was thinking if the motor needs rebuilding, it could be repaired even easier apart.

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08-13-2010, 10:18 PM	#17
BigBlockMan Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Southwest Georgia Posts: 1,469	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in I have done a permanent fix for exactly same problem. It was 4 years ago so details are a little fuzzy. But if your looking at it should make sense. It does involve removing side cover, But its been 4 years and still holding. Drain oil Remove clutch and side cover Clean hole with brake clean from inside and outside. Get new drain plug from auto parts store (it will have a flange) THIS IS WHAT CAUSED THE WHOLE PROBLEM ON THIS ONE. THE CUSTOMER HAD CROSSED THREADS ON ORIGINAL PLUG....SO HE WENT TO PARTS HOUSE TO BUY A NEW PLUG. THEY HAVE REPLACEMENT PLUGS IN REGULAR SIZE AND A TAPERED OVERSIZE PLUG FOR A STRIPPED HOLE. HE ACCIDENTLLY BOUGHT THE OVERSIZE. WHEN HE FORCED IT IN IT SPLIT THE DRAIN HOLE JUST LIKE YOURS. OK back to the fix. Install o ring on new drain plug Coat threads on plug and inside of hole with regular JB weld Screw in the drain plug from INSIDE and tighten snug Allow JB to dry overnight I then drilled and tapped a hole in low oil sensor for new oil drain location. Clean everthing up install side cover gasket and cover and add clutch Fill with oil and your good to go.

08-15-2010, 09:26 AM	#18
sabercat gone yamaha! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: ontario, canada Posts: 1,424	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in i had this same crack on my g9, from over tightening the drain plug. when i was changing the oil i cleaned the crack with brake cleaner a jb welded it and put a little gas/oil resistant teflon tape on the drain plug just in case. never leaked since. other thing you could do, and i was going to do this before i thought of the jb weld. have a welding shop put a real light bead of weld there. a light bead of TIG fuze should work nicely. Might have to disconect the batt and engine grounds to protect the electronics, i'm not too sure on that.

09-08-2010, 08:47 PM	#19
TimKarp Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Livoni MI Posts: 157	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in sabercat... I did the same....when i was changing the oil i cleaned the crack with brake cleaner a jb welded it and put a little gas/oil resistant teflon tape on the drain plug just in case. Hasnt leaked since.

09-14-2010, 09:01 PM	#20
sabercat gone yamaha! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: ontario, canada Posts: 1,424	Re: G9 crack where oil drain plug screws in yup i just go easy on the plug torquing. also i WOULD switch to a full synthetic name brand oil, good idea when running these little motors at higher rpms tghen there used to.

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