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Old 07-28-2017, 02:10 PM   #21
Alexr
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

I am just joining in I have the same rear end issues. Did anyone get it fixed.
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Old 07-28-2017, 04:25 PM   #22
TahoeDawgZ71
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

I know of three members here who got it fixed....
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:51 AM   #23
Zahmd
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

mines a 1500 xrt but I had the same issue. A new carrier fixed it- its an easy repair- I listed the steps- its on here (look for a post about july 2 2017) but maybe a little wordy. About 3 hrs to fix but is pricey. Tahoedawgz71 is correct- and will help you with parts. Mine climbs like a little goat now
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:32 AM   #24
TahoeDawgZ71
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

The vehicle is designed to run with the front disengaged until it detects slippage in the rear. When the vehicle detects that the rear tires are rotating faster than the front, the front will turn on to help the vehicle get traction. The 4x2 switch you're referring to turns off the circuit to the front differential and prevents it from engaging. With the switch off (in 4x2 mode) you should be able to drive in rear wheel drive without the front engaging. If there is ever an instance where the rear driveshaft is rotating, but the vehicle isn't moving, this is a dead giveaway that the differential has failed.
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:53 PM   #25
bobkmd
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

I purchased a used club car xrt1550 diesel about a year ago, and we recently were hit by hurricane Harvey. My place went completely under water, but I moved it up to higher ground. I noticed the clubcar was slipping after having to drive through some high water. I've drained the rear differential as it was full of water a few times to clear it out, and it appears to be running better, but still will slip a little when put into forward ( seems to work better if I shift to reverse, then into forward). Is there anything else I can do before sinking the money into a new reared? Our wonderful flood insurance won't allow a claim if it was not in a covered structure.
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Old 05-24-2018, 04:10 PM   #26
rday@pacbell.net
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

I have the same issue with the rear carrier slipping on a 2004 4x4 xrt 1500 and only the front wheel drive is working, understand purchasing the Differential AM1301301 is supposed to fix the issue but is now over 1K, has anyone tried to replace the springs in the existing differential? Thanks
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Old 07-09-2018, 04:44 PM   #27
DCUnger
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zahmd View Post
mines a 1500 xrt but I had the same issue. A new carrier fixed it- its an easy repair- I listed the steps- its on here (look for a post about july 2 2017) but maybe a little wordy. About 3 hrs to fix but is pricey. Tahoedawgz71 is correct- and will help you with parts. Mine climbs like a little goat now
Took a while to find it, but thanks for your step by step instructions on the rear end change out...

1500- 2004 4 x 4 diesel Posted by Zahmd
I first jacked up- place stands under frame as u will need to freely move the swing arms up and down a couple times.
Drain oil from rear diff.
Remove bed if you want- it makes it a little easier to see and get in there.
Knock out the pin holding the rear diff yoke- its easier before the rear is loose and flopping around.
Remove wheels, and disconnect calipers- you can let them hang- or tie up out of the way.
Remove rubber hub cap (center of the rotor)- it pulls off pretty easy- under that you will find a cotter pin, and castle/lock washer (not sure what its real name is) Remove both- then remove large nut on the end of each axle. I used impact gun- use your judgment here).
Remove rotors- then disconnect brake lines from their brackets -----you don't need to open the brake lines up- you will make a mess. just wiggle the rubber grommets until loose.
You will also need to disconnect the bolts that hold the lines (some have little nuts on the bottom so look for those) onto the top of the rear to allow clearance and swing the intact brake lines and calipers up and out of your way.
Remove lower shock bolts- that will allow the lower bracket the brake line runs through to be now removed.
Swing shocks backward (you might want to tie these back as they will fall back down and be in the way.) place jack under center carrier housing-
Remove the 4 bolts holding rear end housing in place- *you will likely need a buddy at this point as the rear is not symmetrical and will not sit nicely on the jack like a car/tractor rear would. Two inside trailing arm also hold the hitch- so be prepared for that- its light- but will fall on your foot/hand.
Now pull rear end out of the cart. (Note: you might be able to do the carrier change w/o removing rear but we found it easier/faster to pull the whole unit for servicing up on the work bench.)
Once rear is out- remove the bolts on the side of the rear axle housing. six on each side IIRC,. CAREFULLY slide each housing off the axles. There is no lube in the tubes (or shouldn't be) but you may need to tap around to break the form-a-gasket seal where the tubes meet the carrier. Once the axle tubes are removed the axles pull straight out. There will be a retainer on the end (this is why the axles won't come out w/o removing tubes). Be gentle with the machined surfaces especially where they contact the black seal that you will now be able to see (at the side of the carrier housing).
Remove the bolts holding the upper and lower carrier housing- there is a gap on the front and rear to gently insert pry bar/screwdriver or whatever to break the seal loose, but try to do it symmetrically. Just don't damage mating surfaces.
Center carrier is aluminum so take care to not warp or even scratch the mating surfaces. Once apart you will grab the pinion (part that connects to drive shaft) and the carrier (ring gear) and wiggle real good and they should pop out. - a buddy is good here too as they are pretty snug. DO NOT BEAT ON THIS. once both are out- wash housing thoroughly and blow dry. Remove all traces of old sealant _ again being careful to not scratch the aluminum mating surfaces.
It appears Club Car used grey form-a-gasket- so I used the same. You will need approx. 1.5 tubes. You will now place the new carrier and pinion back in place- (slide a new pinion seal onto the pinion before reinstalling. some wiggling is required to "mesh" the gears, and you will need to be sure you have them fully seated in place- use the formagasket on both upper and lower surfaces (of the carrier case) with a slight amount extra where the axle seals and pinion seals intersect with the case.
When you are sure you have it seated- replace the bolts- but not tight -yet- I used Indian head gasket shellac on the case where the axle seals go- maybe you don't need to but I like the stuff. Slide new axle seals in place making sure they fully seat. Now finish tightening the case bolts.
Replace axles by simply sliding them in place. Now use form a gasket to coat the surfaces over the side of the carrier housing where the axle housing seats. (my cart had originally so much that it covered part of the axle seal- so I did it exactly the way it was originally.) Bolt axle housings in place. There are no torque settings I could find so I did it by feel- Just don't strip out the aluminum. Now you are ready to reinstall axle (essentially reverse the above procedure).

Potential stumbling blocks: We didn't tie up the brakes/brake lines- they need to be ABOVE the axle- so be sure you lift them up BEFORE you reinstall axle.
2. Hitch is held by the axle bolts so don't forget to put it back before the 4 main bolts go on.
3. Do not use 90 weight- use the correct fluid unless you want to repeat this again very soon.
4. The reason you are probably doing this is CC called for 20 oz fluid in the rear. The revised carrier and instructions say 40 oz- you will need to add the extra 20 oz from the top (remove the bellows- the funny black rubber thingy located on the top center of the carrier- its around 3/8 O.D. so get a hose and funnel and measure your 40 oz (not 39 or 41) Your new carrier will come with the correct fluid- use that- as I believe it is not just hydraulic fluid- iirc it also has some friction modifier additives to make the rear lock properly and not slip.

I am mechanically inclined but by no means a mechanic- If anyone has a correction or omission please advise me so I can edit this for future cart owners.

Last edited by DCUnger; 07-09-2018 at 04:47 PM.. Reason: Added steps from Zahmd
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:00 PM   #28
mhandschmann
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

weak springs makes the most sense. Do you have a source or idea getting the correct springs?
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Old 01-09-2020, 04:39 PM   #29
caburkett
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Default Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

could these be welded to make it a positive track
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Old 03-04-2020, 06:23 PM   #30
chollis918
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Thumbs up Re: club car xrt 1550 rearend locker issues

Fixed it on mine, here are the springs I used. I took apart the differential and measured them. They work perfect. No issues and it's been 2 yrs now.

Part # for rear differential locker springs: LHP 063E 04S from Lee Springs. The original springs specs: OD = .34", wire = .064", length 1". Springs from Lee Springs specs: OD = .36", wire = .063", length = 1". Paid $10 each, $50 minimum order limit.



Hope this helps someone! Good Luck!
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