Columbia / ParCar comments/complaints

[karly]

so what is the 800 #

[swb713]

Originally Posted by Tech Support

That unit can have a 2” or a 4” factory deaigned lift kit but they are pricier than noat have to spend. (Check evtechnicalservices.com/parts and category accessories).

The one flash usually ends up being a controller needing replacement.

Thanks for the reply.
The factory designed lift kits are way more pricey than others and does not seem to increase the clearance, just lift the cart.

On the controller ... thanks for the reply on that one too. That's a bummer. those things are not cheap. I was hoping it would be a programming issue. I guess it is time to dig a little deeper and figure what route I want to take. But ... at least I didn't have to buy the cart too, just the horse to make it move.

Have a great day and thank you for being honest and helpful.

[skaggsd@me.com]

Good Day, I have a 1999 ParCar, 36 Volt. The cart came with a melted controller box Curtis 1204 J1,J2,J3 and the 4 main terminals. I updated with the newer curtis box that has a side J4 pin and a white 4 block connector which I didn't use either. I also replaced the microswitch in the potentiometer. As of now I turn the key on and push the pedal and the solenoid just clicks. It does the same in forward and reverse. I have went through the wiring schematics and everything appears to be connected as should. I read something about if it clicks in the solenoid it is on the high voltage side. Just trying to get a better idea of what is going on. I jumped wires on motor and did turn it over with out the cart wiring. Thanks for the help!

[Firststrike1776]

I have had too many companies try and fix my 2010 ParCar with the high/low speed switch, that since someone rebuilt the motor it makes no difference in the speed. it is in low speed all the time. Plus each tech sells me 2 batteries, so 4 are changed but all s were only 1-1/2 years old.. the range is 10% of prior to these issues. it seems like band aid fixes but no solution.

First, Is there a reason that they use 8 6-v rather than 4 12-v, and can I use 4 12-volt if there is room?

Second how do I check why the high speed makes no difference though it lights up in high?

Last, Does changing a couple at a time kill the older ones in a never-ending cycle of battery death?

BTW no one can tell me why I also have no reverse lights since being "serviced"?

Hope you can shed some light on the subject

[Tech Support]

8 6volt gives more range and power over 4 12volt. With more lead plates it provides greater resource. The down side is more weight and price. It isnt an exact comparison but imagine an 8 cyl engine vs a 4 cyl. If you dont need the long range but batteries are worn out I recommend saving the money and going with the 12’s.

And you shouldnt replace a partial pack for the reason you mentioned.

For your speed it could be the accel cable stretched and/or out of adjustment, or if you have the heavy duty motor with speed sensor that sensor has gone bad.

Speed tech tip guide: https://evtechnicalservices.com/blog...ory=Slow+Speed

[Firststrike1776]

Thanks... If I have 2 batteries about 6 months old and 2 about a month can I replace the remaining 4 or should I do 6 since the 1 month old should be ok to add to? And I see you are in Central FL... where would that be since I am in Central FL as well, if I cannot sort out my issue?

[Tech Support]

I am back in WI right now. My schedule got messed up. Your batteries are all new enough that you are okay with not replacing the whole pack (if some were two years old that would be an issue). Just make sure you use the exact same brand and model as chargers are set by charger algorithm to the battery manufacturer preferred settings so they charge properly. Never mix and match brands.

[Firststrike1776]

Was getting ready to chase down the speed issues we discussed when I got in yesterday and it's dead. Lights blinkers horn etc all work but the green power light doesn't come on and it's just DOA. Before I go chasing down this issue starting at the key switch, can the speed control we discussed be related or does this sound like a separate thing altogether?

[Tech Support]

Sounds like totally separate. First check would be to make sure you have pack voltage at the green wire coming out of the charger.

[Firststrike1776]

the power issue seemed to be a loose connection... however is a small crack in the speed encoder magnet an issue, and is that a standard or reverse thread screw?