Club car Diesel Side by Side dead after washing!

[ThreeCW]

According to the wiring diagram you provided, the fan thermostat (shown in the top right corner of the wiring diagram - page 2) also controls a "Water Temperature Light". If the Water Temp Light is functional, I assume it would be on constantly as well.

If both the water temperature light and the fan are constantly on, it would also point to stuck or faulty thermostat (edit: actually a Coolant Temperature Sensor ... see below).

What are you observing?

Update:
I just had a look at the Illustrated Parts List ... although the wiring diagram calls it a "Thermostat", the thermostat switch is shown as a "Coolant Temperature Sensor" in the Parts List. This is Item 1 on Pages 17-10 and 17-11. Try unplugging this sensor and see if your fan and dash light turn off. If so, a new "Coolant Temperature Sensor" will likely fix your problem.

Here is a link to the full Illustrated Parts List ... it was too big to attach on to this BGW thread.
https://cdn.acenda.com/swift/v1/cart...d_XRT_1550.pdf

[MSDiesel1700]

Just getting back to the Forum after a few weeks to see your suggestion on the fan running. My water temp light is not on. I'll unplug that sensor tomorrow to see if the fan goes off. Thanks for the parts list! Huge help.

[Cartmaster]

I just had a look at the diagram too. It is a bit small and grainy on my phone, but it looks like the light and fan are on separate sensors. If this is correct, you can test both lamp and fan circuit separately. If you ground the lamp sensor wire from the sensor, the lamp should illuminate. If you pull off the fan sensor wire the fan should stop running and as already advised a new sensor should solve the problem. It makes sense to be two separate circuits as you want the fan to operate correctly to keep the temperature correct but the lamp is looking for a higher activation temperature to warn you of an overheat situation.

[ThreeCW]

I had another look at the wiring diagram and the parts list too. As Cartmaster suggests, the Water Temperature Light and the Fan Relay are on two different circuits ... but looking at the parts list, both circuits "appear" to be controlled by a single Coolant Temperature Sensor, which has 2 wires coming out of it.

The Coolant Temperature Sensor may have 2 different temperature switches in it (or not ?) which control the Temp Light and the Fan Relay.

If unplugging the Coolant Temperature Sensor turns OFF the Electric Cooling Fan, then the Coolant Temperature Sensor is likely defective and required replacement.

If unplugging the Coolant Temperature Sensor does NOT turn off the Electric Cooling Fan, then the most likely failed part would be the Fan Relay (see attached Relay Parts diagram - Item 3, Part Number 102420201, Description: Relay, Mini ISO, SPDT).

There are 3 or possibly 4 relays. The Fan Relay would the one with the 14 gauge yellow wire (W107), 14 gauge blue wire (W145), 18 gauge yellow wire with black stripe (W114) and an 18 gauge yellow wire (W146) attached to it.

The Fan Relay should be fairly cheap to replace compared to the sensor, but as I said, if unplugging the Coolant Temperature Sensor fails to turn off the fan, the Fan Relay likely requires replacing to fix your problem of the fan being on continuously.

Let us know how your troubleshooting turns out.

[Cartmaster]

Shame I only have my phone at the moment lol. If I was at work, I could have printed the diagram like I usually do in this situation. Luckily, ThreeCW is on the case here 😆

[MSDiesel1700]

I unplugged the coolant temperature sensor and the fan still comes on. I unplugged the fan relay and swapped it with my light relay and the fan still comes on. I took the fan relay out completely and the fan still comes on.
And I only have three relays. I don't have a relay plugged into what would be the accessory slot.

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by MSDiesel1700

I just bought a 2018 Diesel Club Car Carryall 1700.

Regarding your fan being constantly on ... something is not making sense based on the wiring diagram you provided.

You mention your cart being a 2018 Carryall 1700 Diesel ... but the wiring diagram you provided is for a 2016 Carryall 1700 Diesel.

I wonder if the wiring on your 2018 is different than the 2016 diagram.

Can you obtain the 2018 Wiring Diagram and repost?

[Cartmaster]

I have taken another look at the diagram that you supplied and if it is correct for your model, the fan switching is done on the positive side via the relay and the fan is connected directly to ground which is unusual, the relay switching is done on the ground side which i would expect as the sensor grounds out to the engine when hot. What I am trying to see is why the fan is getting a live feed with the relay disconnected and i cannot see anything obvious at the moment. I need to print the diagram off and study it further.

Power from the fuse should supply relay terminal no 30 if it is a standard automotive relay and when switched send power out to terminal 87 on the relay. terminals 85 and 86 will be the coil side of the relay to pull it in when the sensor see ground when hot.

I am beginning to wonder ( assuming as ThreeCW has queried the correct diagram ) if maybe there has been a problem with this circuit in the past and a previous owner has hot wired the fan to make it come on with the ignition, instead of the sensor and relay. If so, we may need to find this and remove it, then diagnose why the switching circuit is or is not working?
Does this make sense?

The lamp appears to be fed permanent live and is switched on by its sensor grounding out when too hot.

I have to ask now, if you found one sensor with two wires, two separate sensors or just a single sensor?
I also ask what engine make and model you have as that may give me a clue regarding sensors.

Many diesel engines have two separate sensors at or close to the thermostat or one at the thermostat and one located elsewhere such as in one of the radiator hoses. Obviously one for the lamp and one for the fan. Others have dual action sensors with two wires connected and performs both lamp and fan switching. If we can narrow down what you have, we might get somewhere.

Obviously we also need to confirm if we have the correct diagram.

Usually a dual sensor will be shown on a diagram as a single unit with two wires / switches inside, but this diagram shows it as two separate sensors.

Following wire colors will help identify what you have.

[MSDiesel1700]

Thanks again for the feedback.

The 2016 wiring diagram was the only one I could find. So the 2018 may be slightly different but everything seems to match up. I'll keep looking for that 2018 diagram.

My sensor is one sensor with two wires (pics attached). The engine is a Kubota D722.

I was also wondering about the possibility of the fan having been rewired by a previous owner.

[Cartmaster]

Reading back a few posts, I note that the fan runs even when you pull the relay, so there definitely seems to be something else feeding the fan with a Positive supply. Assuming the diagram is correct, the fan wire from the sensor should be Yellow/black and the lamp wire should be Green/white. Just for clarity, it would be useful if you were to disconnect the sensor and poke a wire into the Green/white wiring loom connection and ground the other end of the wire to see if the lamp comes on. This will prove that that circuit should work if the sensor is good. You have stated that the fan runs without the relay plugged in, so we cannot do a similar test for that circuit apart from proving that grounding the Yellow black wire activates the relay ( you will hear it click ). What we need to do now is find out why the fan is getting power without the relay installed. If you can prove the two switching circuits as described, we can move on.
You need to trace the blue wire from the fan back to the relay normally open connection. May I suggest that it may be worth probing the fan relay socket connection to see if there is power on the blue wire without the relay plugged in? This will tell us that the wire may not be compromised and a previous owner may have supplied power elsewhere instead of testing/replacing the sensor or relay, and you can see this power at the relay socket. If there is no power on the blue relay connection, there may be a break in the blue wire between the relay and fan and again power may have been added elsewhere to make the fan run. A constantly running cooling fan will allow the engine to run too cool and increase engine wear over time, so we need to find out why it is happening and correct it.

Once we have found where the power to the fan is coming from, we can again move on to testing everything else to find out why it was done.

You can test the sensor for the fan circuit. Remove it from the engine and connect your meter to the yellow/black wire and the brass body on the continuity setting. Place the sensor into boiling water and you should see continuity when it gets hot.
The same test on the Green/white wire will need way more heat to test and is impractical.
You should see an open circuit on both parts of the sensor when the sensor is cold.

There are other ways to test the sensor, but we need to know more about what type it is, so we will leave that for now.

If you want a more accurate test, the fan side should switch at around 85 -95 degrees C ( 200 F ) and the lamp side should switch a lot higher. Possibly in the 110-130 C range ( 230 -260 F ) so again, you may not be able to easily test the lamp side of the sensor. The reason for these higher than boiling temperatures is that with a properly pressurized cooling system, the coolant boils at much higher temperatures.

I hope I have all this correct, but I am sure someone will chime in soon to correct me LOL.