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Old 11-09-2020, 06:21 PM   #11
WalterM6
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Default Re: When hooking up solar panel + terminal spark

I don't know if this will work but I believe I seen it used on the Solar Forum. It would be worth a try before you scrap all your plans. Use a step up converter to go from 24v to 48v. That is provided your solar controller is still ok and you have a voltage output.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=solar+24+...ref=nb_sb_noss
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Old 11-10-2020, 02:36 AM   #12
Murby
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Default Re: When hooking up solar panel + terminal spark

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
It is trying to pull a load. Hook the negative side last and before doing so, place a 60w or 75w incandescent bulb on the pack negative terminal and then take your negative cable and place it on the thread of the bulb. The bulb will illuminate and once the bulb dims out, remove the bulb and quickly connect the cable.
I have to do that with my solar inverters before allowing the battery contactor to close. Mine is automated though.. its called Precharging.. to allow the caps to load up before applying full battery juice.

They do the same thing with EV's.
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Old 11-13-2020, 10:42 AM   #13
simicrintz
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Default Re: When hooking up solar panel + terminal spark

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Originally Posted by ericmiles View Post
Seems interesting.
It kinda seems like you are pitching house solar on a golf cart forum to me
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Old 11-16-2020, 09:49 AM   #14
Timinator
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Default Re: When hooking up solar panel + terminal spark

So, you put a 48V solar panel on the roof of your cart, and wired a 24V charge controller to the solar panel output and hooked that up to your 48V battery pack in your cart?
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Old 11-19-2020, 10:37 PM   #15
morvolts2
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Default Re: When hooking up solar panel + terminal spark

I put a solar panel on our 48v beater cart
This may be beyond some,but I have the solar panel wired in parallel 24v with a 300a solenoid separating the 2 packs,with a charge inhibit if the solenoid is off and solar power is on.
I tried a charge controller to go from the 28v the panel puts out to 52v the pack requires and the controller just didnt put out the wattage.
The other solution is to pay 4x as much for a boost solar controller that doesnt mind cloudy days.
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