G1 Electrical Issue

[AGELE55]

[QUOTE=lcodd6;1900249]I’m a little confused. You say you have 12v on one fuse holder lead, but both leads read continuity to ground? Yes, with the fuse removed, I have 12v on the wire lead going back to the solenoid. If I check each fuse lead back to the battery (-), there is continuity. I figured that was a good thing. You should not have power on the wire going back to the solenoids. Let’s figure this out first, then we’ll move on to any other issue.

And…if you put in a fuse it will immediately blow? The fuse only blows when I try to connect the black wire to the CDI Magneto. Right now, I have the CDI unit, CDI Magneto, and Ignition coil disconnected to avoid any potential damage. With these 3 item discounted, the starter turns on as it should when the pedal is pressed. Because of this, I’m assuming the problem is with the ignition system. . Definitely in the ignition system. I’m thinking the mystery 12v at the fuse is back feeding through the magneto when you plug it in and finding a ground somewhere. Let’s stick with isolating the 12v at the fuse and see where that gets us.

[lcodd6]

AGELE55, why wouldn't there is 12v from the ground wire to the battery (+)?

Also, I checked the black and black/white at the CDI box. Both are showing 12v back to the battery (+).

This is so strange....One thing I noticed at the forward solenoid is I continuity between the A1 and ground. Shouldn't this not be the case?

[AGELE55]

Originally Posted by lcodd6

AGELE55, why wouldn't there is 12v from the ground wire to the battery (+)? We’re not looking to the battery +. What you need to check is this:
Leave the fuse out.
Leave battery connected.
Set the meter to DC voltage.
Put the red meter lead on the fuse holder lead that heads back to the solenoids. Put the black meter lead on the battery negative post
If12v is present you have a short circuit because you are seeing 12v+ on the negative side.
So, if the 12v is there, disconnect the black wire at the solenoids and test for 12v on that end of the black wire and at the solenoid NO post where you disconnected it from.
If 12v is on that end of the black wire, it is shorted to 12v somewhere between the fuse and the solenoid.
If 12v is on the NO solenoid post, which Is a very low probability..we’ll think on that later.

Also, I checked the black and black/white at the CDI box. Both are showing 12v back to the battery (+). I’m not sure how you’re setting your meter leads but yes, you could see 12v if you’re probing back to the + post…

This is so strange....One thing I noticed at the forward solenoid is I continuity between the A1 and ground. Shouldn't this not be the case?

Well, we know something is amiss, but we need to pick one symptom and follow it. Let’s find the 12v on the fuse wire first. Do the test spelled out above.

[lcodd6]

Okay,
When I check this, I'm not seeing any voltage on the battery ground to the solenoid.

I tried putting the positive lead opposite side of the fuse lead. I'm seeing about .14v. If I take a jumper lead from the battery ground to attach it to the engine, the voltage goes down to zero.

[lcodd6]

Well AGELE55....it was a bad ground wire. The ground wire going to the chassis (fender) wasn't making a good connection. Once I cleaned this up and put on a new terminal, no more blown fuses!!! My cart now seems to operate as it should and I have spark.

Thank you for all your help. This positive ground system really tested my electrical limits. I was ready to pull the plug and bring it to my local shop.

Now it's time to get some gas in the tank and see if it starts

[AGELE55]

Awesome… it had me scratching my head also…. Fire that baby up and do some laps!