Stuck Electric Motor

[MIG-ateur]

Okay. I have read several of the threads dealing with electric motor removal. I understand that it may be difficult to remove a motor from a differential, expecially if it has never been removed before, or it has been a long time.

But I have been trying to remove my motor for about 3 weeks now. I have removed all 4 bolts. I can rotate the motor, but I cannot get it to move but about 1/16" away from the flange face. I have tried wedging a putty knife and a screwdriver in the flange but it does not move. I have tried hitting the flange "ear" with a rubber mallet, but it does not move.

I read where someone suggested using a 2X4 and a hammer and beating the ***t out of it. This I have not done since the motor housing is aluminum.

Is it possible to get help in removing the motor if I separate the differential housing from the axle halves? A schematic of the differential/axle assembly would be very helpful, but I have not been able to locate on on the web.

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,

P.S. I am working on a one-off custom long-travel coil-over suspension/lift for the front end of my cart. I have completed the rear spring-over lift already. I will post pics when it is all done and functional. Kinda slow going since I am designing as I go and I work alone.

[CC-John]

Joe,

Here's a couple of parts breakdowns for the electric transaxles...

Kawasaki Transaxle Parts Breakdown
Graziano Transaxle Parts Breakdown

As far as getting the armature off of the input shaft, I ended up using a torch to heat the coupling.. That along with lots of PB Blaster and two pry bars finally released the coupling's grip on the input shaft.. I had to sacrifice the motor, but saved the differential.. In my case the motor was junk from being submerged in salt water and not being rinsed out for over a month..

Hope this helps..

[MIG-ateur]

It helps a lot! I knew I had seen the parts breakdowns but I could not remember where and my searches were coming up empty.
Now I can act like I know what I'm doing when I start disassembling things!
Thanks again!

[rucster]

Joe

This worked for me. Usually there is a gap between the rotor/armature shaft and diff shaft inside the coupling.
Pry on the motor housing. The rotor shaft will pull out of the end bearing. Now all you have is the rotor stuck. Strike the rotor shaft TOWARDS the differential. Use a brass hammer or protect the shaft with a peice of wood. The slightest movement inwards has broken it free. Now pry evenly outwards. good luck

[Fishing Dude]

Run into this at work on conveyors alot. Easiest thing that works is take an electric heat gun heat the motor. When gets toasty then cool then try to pry apart works about 1/2 the time. When puttin on new motor ream the gear with a reamer to smooth inside. Then use a anti seize compound on shaft.

[madoc1]

cc, i know this old, but could you put the kawasaki link up again? it seems to be lost. i have a diff that i want save and don't care about the pds motor which is stuck. jim

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by madoc1

cc, i know this old, but could you put the kawasaki link up again? it seems to be lost. i have a diff that i want save and don't care about the pds motor which is stuck. jim

Hey madoc you want a diagram for a club car rear????

[OLD MEC]

IF AND WHEN YOU GET MOTOR OFF do yourself and the next person to take the motor off a favor and replace the ( Drive unit bumper CC # 102235201 ) and by all means use the ( LUB CC # 102243403 ) as its correct type and amount to stop this from happening again?
The bumper ands lub are installed between the motor shaft and the differential input shaft.

[madoc1]

rib, yes if they use the same type rear end as an ezgo..what i need is a diagram for a 98 ez. thx.

mech i will keep that in mind..thx jim