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Old 11-24-2009, 10:23 AM   #1
mikesmotortoys
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Default 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Here is some interesting information I received from the manyfacturer for the 4 gauge cable sets available on our website. I was notified of the shorter cables by a BGW member using the sets on an OEM controller:

The two motor cables in the kit are about 9” shorter than the factory cables. This helps increase available current. The cables are long enough to fit work properly. The only way this client would be having an issue with this is if he is re-installing the cover over the controller, which he should not do, it traps heat. For protection of the controller buss bars and to mount the run/tow switch he should use only the top 1/3 of the cover. Let me know if this helps.

I hope that this helps others for in the future. I've never thought of cutting the OEM cover's bottom 2/3 off, but not a bad idea - it leaves a mount for the toggle, as well as some top protection for the buss bars

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Old 11-24-2009, 10:30 AM   #2
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

You know i always thought those enviormental covers trapped a lot of heat and thats why ez-go cars burn controllers so bad.
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:34 AM   #3
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Let's don't forget what they were originally designed for...

Hauling 2 people at 100 - 200 yard runs to a golf ball, stop, drive again

Not too many issues when they are used like that

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Old 11-24-2009, 10:39 AM   #4
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

I accidentally came up with cutting the cover down to the top 1/3 recently when taking a cart from 36 to 48 volts (DCX controller). I went with a 400 amp solenoid and it was WAY to big to fit under the controller cover. I cut it down just so that I would have a place for the toggle switch, not thinking it would protect the buss bars. Thanks MIKE for making it official!
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:40 AM   #5
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Oh i know what your saying,a back seat and heavy women put a strain on them.
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:47 AM   #6
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Quote:
Originally Posted by golfcarfixer View Post
Oh i know what your saying,a back seat and heavy women put a strain on them.
What you choose to haul is your choice

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Old 11-24-2009, 10:48 AM   #7
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey-1 View Post
I accidentally came up with cutting the cover down to the top 1/3 recently when taking a cart from 36 to 48 volts (DCX controller). I went with a 400 amp solenoid and it was WAY to big to fit under the controller cover. I cut it down just so that I would have a place for the toggle switch, not thinking it would protect the buss bars. Thanks MIKE for making it official!
We'll call it "Monkey's mod" since you've already done it

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Old 11-24-2009, 02:16 PM   #8
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

my pds carts all have 4ga wire from the controller to the motor. I bought a new set through mike/ezgo and upgraded all the cables smaller than 4ga. I had enough left over to make a few set of pds 4ga cables. I also left the cover off when i did a controller upgrade. I came up with another method to mount the tow/run switch.
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:49 PM   #9
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

I would be the member with the OEM controller.
Plan is...
#1 = 4 gauge welding cables.
(save up some money)
#2 = New batts.
(save up some money)
#3 = Controller up grade.
The wires that were too short for the OEM set-up were NOT the motor cables, but the ones from the battery pack to the controller/solenoid.
Mike fixed me up...problem solved.
My concern with cutting the controller cover is getting the molex connectors for the run/tow switch, speed options, etc. wet. (I like to play in the creeks)
Would a good soaking of these connectors be a problem?
If not, then the shorter the wire, the better.
Russ
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:43 AM   #10
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Default Re: 4 gauge cable sets for PDS / DCS carts

Instead of cutting mine I used long screws and made it stand off a couple inches still keeping cover and run/tow switch and allowing a place for heat to dicipate with a little air flow.
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