Voltage Reducer Disconnects

[dtclements]

Trying to install a converter on a 2006 Precedent. I already have lights and currently have them working off one battery. Want to add a radio and converter.

I have read and read that there is suppose to be a "voltage reducer disconnects " in the light harness, but cannot find it or figure it out. Can anyone help? what does the disconnect look like? what color wires?

To me, it sounds like there should be a disconnect (1 positive and 1 negative) that I seperate, use it to feed 48v to the reducer, then feed the 12v back into the light harness. There is no wires that can be disconnected.

help please!

[GLEEMO]

My understanding is that the late model IQ carts have a 2 spare Bullet connector in the wiring harbess 1 for 12 Volts and 1 for 48 Volts.
A expert will be along shortly to confirm/deny ...etc.

[encbuggy]

Originally Posted by dtclements

Trying to install a converter on a 2006 Precedent. I already have lights and currently have them working off one battery. Want to add a radio and converter.

I have read and read that there is suppose to be a "voltage reducer disconnects " in the light harness, but cannot find it or figure it out. Can anyone help? what does the disconnect look like? what color wires?

To me, it sounds like there should be a disconnect (1 positive and 1 negative) that I seperate, use it to feed 48v to the reducer, then feed the 12v back into the light harness. There is no wires that can be disconnected.

help please!

reviving this thread I have the same issue/question. I am using the aftermarket redhawk light kit LGT-306E PDF install found here http://www.golfcart.com/downloads.htm under Club Car Precedent Electric Adjustable Light Kit . If you look at picture 1 you see "optional disconnect for voltage reducer". This is where I need assistance on the correct way to wire this in if you have already installed a 48V to 12V converter and are looking to move the lights from 1 battery to all 4 (through the converter).

[OLD MEC]

I may be old fashioned but I go direct to pack battery plus and minus posts, add a inline fuse and some type of off switch to kill power to reducer when its not needed. My reason is I dont trust hooking into existing wiring looms? I find the wiring to be minimum sized and could cause whole loom burning up, rather than 2 correctly sized wires and fuse at point of connection possible minor damage? To get away from what happened to one of my neighbors when his 2 day old new EZGO burned to the ground because of a reducer over heating or shorting out?
Better yet I like the addition of a 12 volt battery seperate from pack to carry all accessories. This eliminates the static for recievers, players, stops load from main power supply and can be done for less cost than most voltage reducers?

[GLEEMO]

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

I may be old fashioned but I go direct to pack battery plus and minus posts, add a inline fuse and some type of off switch to kill power to reducer when its not needed. My reason is I dont trust hooking into existing wiring looms? I find the wiring to be minimum sized and could cause whole loom burning up, rather than 2 correctly sized wires and fuse at point of connection possible minor damage? To get away from what happened to one of my neighbors when his 2 day old new EZGO burned to the ground because of a reducer over heating or shorting out?
Better yet I like the addition of a 12 volt battery seperate from pack to carry all accessories. This eliminates the static for recievers, players, stops load from main power supply and can be done for less cost than most voltage reducers?

BUT the downside is, it causes U to have to keep second source charged ...etc. and a 12Volt charger.
And U must be commited :))

[encbuggy]

bump for anyone else

[Cinrock]

The bullet connectors are off the front pair of batteries, red and blue. Blue is 12v feed on my cart, red 48v. Always check with a vol meter, don't take my word for gospel. Carts w/o a converter are hooked to the 12v connector. The simple method is to disconnect the 12v feed and plug into the output of the converter. The input goes into the 48v connector on the battery.

[Al B Cuttn Wud]

Did anyone have any luck finding the voltage reducer disonnects? If so, is this the +48 source for the voltage reducer? If I use this to supply my voltage reducer, does the key switch turn on/off the reducer? Thanks, Al

[erict]

Originally Posted by Al B Cuttn Wud

Did anyone have any luck finding the voltage reducer disonnects? If so, is this the +48 source for the voltage reducer? If I use this to supply my voltage reducer, does the key switch turn on/off the reducer? Thanks, Al

It depends on which converter you have as there are many. Some come with a trigger wire just for this purpose. If it doesn't, the other option is to install a toggle switch and relay to turn it on/off.

[Al B Cuttn Wud]

Thanks Eric. I am going to take the one I bought back and get one with a trigger wire so I can tap into the key switch. It just makes sense to go this route vice adding extra toggle switch and relay......less to break! Thanks again.