MCOR4 Surgery Revisited

[Tom47]

Sergio requested additional photos of the inside of the MCOR4.

Someone mentioned in another thread that the switch in the Precedent MCOR was rated at 28 VDC. So is this one. This is VERY concerning as switch manufacturers certify switches at a maximum voltage. It may well be the cause of early failures.

The white plastic piece in the housing is the switch actuator. It is spring loaded to avoid causing the switch lever to over travel.

[Sergio]

I see their custom switch has the "L" terminals, but it looks like the regular stock unit with the "solder lugs" on the back should be easy enough to solder to the board.

I would not be concerned with the 28Vdc rating, specially at the extremely low current levels the controller uses for "logic" input.

The spring loaded actuator is a nice improvement, not for overtravel but to absorb the impact/strike force during a high speed activation.

The only way to really know how your switch failed would be to take it apart and see if the spring in the "snap" mechanism is broken or the contact surfaces of either switch is compromised.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I see their custom switch has the "L" terminals, but it looks like the regular stock unit with the "solder lugs" on the back should be easy enough to solder to the board.

I would not be concerned with the 28Vdc rating, specially at the extremely low current levels the controller uses for "logic" input.

The spring loaded actuator is a nice improvement, not for overtravel but to absorb the impact/strike force during a high speed activation.

The only way to really know how your switch failed would be to take it apart and see if the spring in the "snap" mechanism is broken or the contact surfaces of either switch is compromised.

For some reason, after I opened it, it started working. I pressed the switch a dozen times or more and it worked every time.

If I have any more trouble with it, I'll try to replace the switch. The sturdy way it screws to the board, I think a stock switch and a couple pieces of copper wire would work. Probably you can cut the "L" pins off the old switch and solder in place.

Sealing the cover would be the only concern for someone who drives through water. We never do so it should be fine.

Thanks for your reply!