2015 ez go won’t move

[abgibbs18]

Hello I’m new to golf carts as well as the room
I tried wiring led strips to my golf cart using a lead off the 12v side of the headlight switch. Put everything back together and it won’t move. Put everything back to normal by disconnecting led’s and still nothing. When cart is in reverse it still beeps. It cont move in tow mode and when I reverse the 1+2, 3+4 plugs to override the brake as soon as I plug it up the cart starts moving in reverse. Also I put it in the charger for the first time since I purchased it and the charger seems to be draining the new batteries unless I’m gett a draw from somewhere else all of a sudden. I almost forgot, the solenoid clicks but only when I turn the key on and not when I switch from r-w-n..
Thanks in advance

Just did some research.. the guy that sold it to me misinformed me.. it’s not a 2015 because it looks like it has a danaher controller on it

[wingnut2000]

so the cart worked fine before the lights I assume? How did you hook up the lights? To solenoid? with converter?

[Cartmaster]

My guess is that you have an RXV model and have fried the controller! They really don't like their electrical stuff messed with!

[abgibbs18]

Yes worked perfectly fine
I disconnected the lights because I wasn’t using a converter..at the time didn’t know I had to. One of the wires off the headlight switch was a 12v source to I tapped into that, the othe wire off the same switch was 48v..never seen a switch that already had + V on both sides but that’s how it is

[kernal]

Please confirm this is an RXV we are talking about. Pictures would help.

The headlight switch you keep mentioning sure sounds like you are describing the key switch to me. The key switch in an RXV has both 48v and 5v circuits. Even probing the wires with a multimeter can expose the 5v to 48v and zap the brake and go pedal sensors and disable the controller. Expensive repair follows $$$. RXV rule #1: never mess with the key switch wires unless you know exactly what you are doing.

edit: so reading this again, a voltage reducer would have 48v into it and 12v out. A headlight switch would have 12v to it but not 48v if connected correctly and a reducer was present and functioning.

Remember no one here can see the cart. We only know what you tell us.

[cgtech]

The 1-2, 3-4 unlock brake procedure tells us it's an rxv. And since he was wiring stuff to the keyswitch, tells us he needs a new controller.

[abgibbs18]

I didn’t touch the key switch unless it’s the n the same circuit as the pullout headlight switch somehow. And I replaced the pullout switch with a regular toggle switch because it was bad causing the lights to go on and off

[abgibbs18]

Originally Posted by kernal

Please confirm this is an RXV we are talking about. Pictures would help.

The headlight switch you keep mentioning sure sounds like you are describing the key switch to me. The key switch in an RXV has both 48v and 5v circuits. Even probing the wires with a multimeter can expose the 5v to 48v and zap the brake and go pedal sensors and disable the controller. Expensive repair follows $$$. RXV rule #1: never mess with the key switch wires unless you know exactly what you are doing.

edit: so reading this again, a voltage reducer would have 48v into it and 12v out. A headlight switch would have 12v to it but not 48v if connected correctly and a reducer was present and functioning.

Remember no one here can see the cart. We only know what you tell us.

Pullout headlight switch wires when tested unhooked to switch.. one was 48v and the other was 12v.. seemed odd that they both showed positive voltage but when switch is on or connected directly together the lights come on

[abgibbs18]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The 1-2, 3-4 unlock brake procedure tells us it's an rxv. And since he was wiring stuff to the keyswitch, tells us he needs a new controller.

Is there a definite way to test controller. I’m getting around a constant 2v across b+ and w terminal on the controller no matter position of go pedal.
Maybe I should start testing and replacing the sensors and the pedals. That may also be why when I reverse the plugs the brakes don’t release but start moving in reverse

[abgibbs18]

Just dug a little deeper. The 12v wire I tapped into Off the switch is ran directly to the battery for the lights and it’s fused.