2013 EZ Go RXV after Solonoid Replacement

[dunerbarrier]

Chidren ran out of charge Friday night & tried pushing cart w/out engaging tow switch & 1234 wire reversal. Someone in neighborhood saw this and did so for them... got the cart back to my garage. Cart took a full charge on Saturday, but would not move. I replaced solenoid yesterday and still won't move. Everything comes on as usual (sounds, the clunk before pressing pedal, etc), but no movement in forward or reverse. Did I burn something else up?

[badandyturbo]

Can you push it freely in tow mode?

[dunerbarrier]

Originally Posted by badandyturbo

Can you push it freely in tow mode?

Yes, I just re-did the towing procedure (switch to tow, 1 to 3) and could push backwards & forward freely.

[badandyturbo]

That eliminates the motor brake. Check voltage at solenoid and accelerator petal.

[dunerbarrier]

Originally Posted by badandyturbo

That eliminates the motor brake. Check voltage at solenoid and accelerator petal.

Much appreciated. Thank you. What voltage should I be getting at the solenoid? And when you say accelerator petal, check voltage their too? Sorry for the remedial questions.

[badandyturbo]

I attached the troubleshooting guide for the petal. As far as the solenoid check for 48v on lead going to motor and from the controller.

[rngilliland]

Originally Posted by dunerbarrier

Yes, I just re-did the towing procedure (switch to tow, 1 to 3) and could push backwards & forward freely.

Don't know if it makes any difference but it looks like you are putting it in tow mode with the switch and using the emergency brake release procedure. The brake should release with the key in N and putting the tow switch in tow. You don't need to switch the connectors under the splash shield. The connector swap is only used if the tow switch won't release the brake. The key should be off when swapping the connectors.

My experience has been that if the tow switch doesn't release the brake, and the batteries are fully charged, it's usually the brake. I've also seen the solenoid be the problem but you already replaced it.

[dunerbarrier]

Originally Posted by rngilliland

Don't know if it makes any difference but it looks like you are putting it in tow mode with the switch and using the emergency brake release procedure. The brake should release with the key in N and putting the tow switch in tow. You don't need to switch the connectors under the splash shield. The connector swap is only used if the tow switch won't release the brake. The key should be off when swapping the connectors.

My experience has been that if the tow switch doesn't release the brake, and the batteries are fully charged, it's usually the brake. I've also seen the solenoid be the problem but you already replaced it.

Thank you. Interestingly, I can not push freely when I follow the Neutral/Tow Switch procedure. I can hear the click when I switch to tow (and vice versa). Still can't move, but I haven't checked solenoid voltage and pedal yet as the other gentleman suggested.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by badandyturbo

That eliminates the motor brake. Check voltage at solenoid and accelerator petal.

This does not eliminate the brake, just proves it can unlock. The controller try's to twist against a locked brake, it could still fail that test.

[kernal]

Originally Posted by dunerbarrier

Thank you. Interestingly, I can not push freely when I follow the Neutral/Tow Switch procedure. I can hear the click when I switch to tow (and vice versa). Still can't move, but I haven't checked solenoid voltage and pedal yet as the other gentleman suggested.

Just for grins, try this both ways. Switch to tow first, then put key in N. My cart will release brake if you this in that order but not in reverse order.