Bad controller or battery

[Beach Bound]

I have a 1996 EZ Go with the DSC 10 pin controller. The batterys are about 3 years old. It's only used a few times a month. A couple of weeks ago my kids were using the cart and when first strarting out they said they smelled something burning and saw some smoke coming from the controller cover.

I've done the checks that I could find on other sites and believe the problem to be either the controller or perhaps a bad battery. I've got 37.5 V on the pack. I can only get the wheels to turn if the cart is on lifts. Sometime I have to give the tires some help to start.

I checked the controller voltage with positive on B+ and negative on the M terminal. Pressing the accelerator the reading went from 0 to about 8.5V (tires not turning). Then when I spun the tires (on lifts) and pressing the accelerator the reading went on up to the pack voltage. I don't have a load tester for the battery.

Would a burned up controller still spin the tires (on the lifts) and have the voltage readings? What is the main suspect?

[DaveTM]

First, welcome to BGW!! Second....check out these post http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-question.html that were made on a recent issue that was very similar to what your asking and see if this helps.

controller bad

[JohnnieB]

I agree, most likely a bad controller.

Don't replace the controller with another stock DCS controller, replace it with an Alltrax DCX or XCT aftermarket controller.

The DCS controller (Curtis 1206SX) was a failed design.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

[cgtech]

I really suggets doing a ohm test on the motor (or pull & inspect even better) before dropping any cash on new parts.

[Beach Bound]

Thanks everyone for hopefully keeping me from blindly replacing parts.
How would I go about ohm testing the motor?

[cgtech]

Ohm meter set to low setting (20 or less). Test at the following locations. A1 to A2 (should be low 2 or less), S1 to S2 (should be low, 3 or less), any A to any S (should be no connection), any terminals to the motor case (should be no connection).

[Beach Bound]

I did the motor test, but now wonder if what I did was accurate because I didn't disconnect the cables going to the motor.
Anyway, with the cables still connected I got:
A1 to A2 - Continuity (no apparent resistance)
S1 to S2 - .5 Ohms
A1 to S2 - Continuity (Ouch)
no continuity from any lug to the motor.

If the motor is toast, then is the controller also likely toast?

[cgtech]

Might still be a valid test if power was disconnected and f&r was in neutral. Best bet is to disconnect wires.