alltrax 400dcx

[jchcart]

Originally Posted by cgtech

33.0v at full load is a ok level, was it still slow after a full charge? Is motor stock? Did they tell you what field map was loaded? Have you checked for the controller detecting 100% throttle (green led will turn orange when at 100%)?

Yea- still slow, yes - stock motor, no - I didn't get any info with the controller (wrong place to buy I know), when I first turn it on the controller blinks green 4 times then goes to blinking red 3 times and once I touch the throttle just a little it turns to sold green- I have not checked for an orange light at full throttle- I'll do that when I get home
Also as far as the cover goes- it is just sitting in there no bolts in it, the wires are way to big for me to put it back like it was so I wasn't sure what to do with it till now, but the controller should have air to it

[kgsc]

Okay 3 red is a problem. That says the throttle did not return to zero which means it doesn't think the pedal came all the way back up. Here is the manual. http://alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-0...X-Mini-Man.pdf

[scottyb]

In some cases I have heard of some people disabling the high pedal disable feature in the program to run the cart... but ideally the safety feature should be left intact and the conflict resolved. Test your throttle input signal. It is a voltage value between 10 and 6v measured between the white and black wire at the control.

Put the cart on stands to test for safety.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jchcart

Yea- still slow, yes - stock motor, no - I didn't get any info with the controller (wrong place to buy I know), when I first turn it on the controller blinks green 4 times then goes to blinking red 3 times and once I touch the throttle just a little it turns to sold green- I have not checked for an orange light at full throttle- I'll do that when I get home
Also as far as the cover goes- it is just sitting in there no bolts in it, the wires are way to big for me to put it back like it was so I wasn't sure what to do with it till now, but the controller should have air to it

Normally the HPD error (3 red blinks) disables the controller, so the fact it goes away when you touch the pedal makes me suspect the pedal switch is misbehaving. This error occurs when the controller powers up with voltage on Pin-5. When the pedal is up, the pedal switch contacts, which sends voltage to Pin-5, are supposed to be open, so if there is a voltage on Pin-5 at power up, the controller thinks the pedal is pushed and in order to prevent the cart from taking off without the driver specifically telling it to do so, won't send power to the motor until the pedal has been returned to the fully up position. I suspect the voltage on Pin-5 momentarily goes away when the pedal is moved, clearing the HPD error and then the controller passes amps to the motor. This problem needs to be found and fixed, but it isn't what is holding the cart's speed down.

When you get your laptop connected, verify that the Max Output Current and Top Speed sliders are adjusted to 100% and there is a check mark in the Turbo box. Also verify Field Map #3 is loaded. Attached is the way the DCX400 I used to have in my cart was originally programmed when it Scotty shipped it to me. I have a PDS rather than a DCS, but all the settings (other than the Field Map should be #3 instead of #4) would be a good starting point for maximum speed and torque in a DCS.

Also attached is a schematic of a DCX in a DCS cart, I suspect you didn't receive one with your controller.

In addition, is a picture showing how one forum member cut down the cover and attached the piece of it with the Run/Tow switch to the cart body to maximize air flow across the controller.

[jchcart]

Thanks guys for all the help, I'm going to get the cord I need and hook it up to the lap top and see what it comes up with.

[jchcart]

Alright I got my cord in and the turbo button was off, I also switched it from custom to progressive and it's running much faster, I can feel it slowing down quickly when I let off the accelerator now I guess that's normal? Does the solenoid usually get hot or really warm when riding? I went about 2 or 3 miles mostly at full speed. Is there any other settings I need to change or do they need to look just like that sample you posted for me?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jchcart

1. Alright I got my cord in and the turbo button was off, I also switched it from custom to progressive and it's running much faster,

2. I can feel it slowing down quickly when I let off the accelerator now I guess that's normal?

3. Does the solenoid usually get hot or really warm when riding? I went about 2 or 3 miles mostly at full speed.

4. Is there any other settings I need to change or do they need to look just like that sample you posted for me?

1. When you get a chance, what is top speed on level ground now.

2. That is the regen barking kicking in. Normal. (Amount of regen braking is adjustable by increasing or decreasing "Brake Current" slider.)

3. It is an energized electromagnet, so it will get really warm. The cables should not be getting warm.

4. The settings I posted are a good starting point. You can tweak them to customize the way your cart runs to your personal liking.

The various adjustments are explained fairly well in attached manual.


What Field Map is loaded????????

[jchcart]

It got up to 21 mph, it had field map 3 loaded so I left it with that. I wasn't sure about changing the brake current, I did not know they were in the Manuel, I will read it to see what all they do. I guess 21 is about right on the speed with stock tires, but I don't know

[Sergio]

Looking at your pictures on post #4, You should consider changing the order You have the cables on the battery posts before you have heat damage.

You always want the most current carrying cable to have the least path of resistance, which in the case of the battery is in direct contact with the lead surface of the battery post pad.

The cables on the solenoid also appear to be in reverse order.

Put the big cable first, then stack the smaller ones on top, then the nut.

[jchcart]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Looking at your pictures on post #4, You should consider changing the order You have the cables on the battery posts before you have heat damage.

You always want the most current carrying cable to have the least path of resistance, which in the case of the battery is in direct contact with the lead surface of the battery post pad.

The cables on the solenoid also appear to be in reverse order.

Put the big cable first, then stack the smaller ones on top, then the nut.

Could the cables being stacked like they are make the solenoid get hotter than what it is supposed too? Also not sure which cables on the batteries are wrong? I just replaced them with what was sent in the new cable package, the ones on the far end are longer but that is what came with it, no other short ones.