Battery Rack Replacement

[skipsmith521]

I am thinking about doing some repairs or replacement to my battery rack on 36 Volt cart.

Been thinking more about getting this done before it gets too hot outside.

I could try to use some POR 15 on the rack, but it seems like a lot of prep work, and not sure how you would prep the rack on the bottom side and then apply the POR 15.

If I did replaced battery tray, I would go with aluminum,.. Seems easier to install.

I would really not want to take the body off the cart. I have read others have done it without removing the body.

There is a bolt that goes straight into the vertical bar (next to number 6 in the photo) and then through the front tab on the OEM battery tray and into the frame that would have to come out.

Removing this bolt looks like it would loosen all the supports holding up the F/R lever on my DCS cart. Also, the front tab on the OEM battery tray provides a space between the vertical support and the frame. The new tray does not have a tab, so not sure how that would work or perhaps this space does not matter much.



See picture below...



I would definitely welcome more feedback on this project.

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[cgtech]

Steer clear of aluminum (in my opinion, others swear by it). I have seen too many clubcars with batteries literally falling out the bottom.

[mutant]

i`m with cg on this one...

[270Handiman]

Yep, go steel.

[skipsmith521]

Couple of questions...

plan would be to not remove the body. I would loosen bolts and cut the old one out.

1) Do you think one of those osculating multi tool blades would work to makes cuts to the old one? I have used those to cut wood, but not steel.

2) do they make one of steel that dont have tabs? I don't think a new one with tabs on the front will go back in place without taking the body off.

The drop in and bolt on variety is more appealing to me.



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[Tidenumone]

Hello - I am doing a full body off restoration (I know this is more then you would want to do) and I am a weekend DIY with better then average skills.

I would not have been able to cut the two bolts that are flat in the front and the two in the upper back. Now, the ones in the back you should be able to take out with no issue as they accessible from the outside of the body.

The front four bolts are going to be the problem. The two going vertical you can access, but not sure you could cut...but you should be able to take out without taking the body off.

I am not sure if you can get to the horizontal ones without taking the body off, the two bolts are under the lip.

i actually had to drill out one of the two bolts, it was rusted in place...plus I think they put loctite when they are installed.

Wish I had a better answer...I have only done this only ones so other folks may have a better answer.

Jonathan

[lugster]

I just replaced bolts 1 and nuts 2, I think the other fasteners were ok. I used the started kit called KBS (similar to POR15) and found even doing the bottom was pretty simple (jacks and stands), probably 4 years ago and pretty sure it's holding up fine, probably find out for sure this year as I will need to replace the pack soon. I got the KBS from Summit Racing in Akron, they do a lot of mail/net order.

[skipsmith521]

Good to get others perspective...

I am thinking to just remove the bolts and nuts as I can...hopefully they will come out.

Then take a cutting tool and actually make cuts to the battery rack itself in hopes to getting it out easier.

I am thinking of making cuts along the red lines...see photo... Anyone use an osculating multi tool to cut through the steel?




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[Dennisneri]

never cut steel with mine but a sawza might be the way to go?

[DIRTPIT HC]

I've never cut steel with mine either but I can say it doesn't really cut wood very well. Took it out of the work truck and it is sitting on a shelf at home. Use a sawzall or grinder with a cutoff wheel.