Aircraft mechanic ain’t got what it takes to be a golf cart mechanic.

[Clubfed67]

After carefully reading the repair manual you posted, it looks like my reading are out of spec by a smidge.
My primary terminals on the ignition coil are reading 3.4 ohms so I’m .3 ohms low of tolerance. Secondary wires are reading 17.06K ohms so I’m .06K ohms high.
Pulser coil is reading 18.9 ohms so I’m .1 ohms low here. My meter only goes down to 200VAC. On this scale it was measuring 001VAC. Off to the Big box stores again tomorrow.
Would being out of tolerance this little be the cause of the no spark problem.

[Clubfed67]

Thx for the vote of confidence. Now that I have the right diagrams, I might be able to get this figured out. Or not.
You are very knowledgeable about these carts and have access to the needed info. Are you in the repair biz?

[JPonLKN]

Sounds like bad connections in the coil, or bad coil...but if you have two, not likely they are both bad... Almost feels like your block isn't grounded. Sounds like the coil is getting signal from the pulsar, through the ignitor, just can't fire cause the path isn't complete. Add ground wire direct from the battery negative terminal to the block...there should be one between the starter/generator to the block by the dipstick...but if it is on the plastic flywheel cover...may not be grounding. You can add one and won't hurt anything, but would confirm if thats the issue Closing .y eyes, shooting blindly here.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Clubfed67

Thx for the vote of confidence. Now that I have the right diagrams, I might be able to get this figured out. Or not.
You are very knowledgeable about these carts and have access to the needed info. Are you in the repair biz?

Yes, we can help you figure this out. I no longer work for a living as I retired a few years ago.

I only work on my own now. I did at one time work at a golf course as the mechanic but I forgot most of what I did lol

I now spend my days at my shop . Don't miss a day and to me this is a perfect retirement place. I am currently rebuilding a 350 to install in the one my wife drives. It smokes too much for her I tried talking her into fogging the neighbors but she don't see my joke

I mentioned that both the red and white wires that go to coil will blink using a test light. That is when they are both connected to terminals. If they do flash that test light then it is ready to run.

I had a video somewhere I made a few years ago on how to test them but right now I can't find it. It was on youtube but knowing me I removed it.

Its money well spent getting the spark tester I mentioned. I know CP241 will agree with me on this one. So much better when you got the right tools.

You can also adjust the pulser coil but you said yours was set at .025 so you should be good.

If you get a DVOM that you can set to 20 AC volts or one that sets auto like the Fluke then check it when spinning over. They rarely go bad but you need to see what it is generating . Look for 1/2 volt AC. My bet is its good.

It could be something as simple as a loose wire or ground like JPonLKN mentioned. Check all those good but with that spark tester. it makes things so much better.

If you happen to need parts there is some of the OEM's to be found. Lets wait and see what your test results are first.



I will check back later. Tom

[Clubfed67]

Should both red and white blink or just the red? Only my red blinks, white stays steady. The white wire is hooked up to the negative spade terminal on the coil and the red is hooked up to the positive. Is this the preferred way?

[Clubfed67]

What is the part# for that spark tester and where is the best place to get one? You have been a world of help so far, I would have already given up without you and the other guys advice.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Clubfed67

Should both red and white blink or just the red? Only my red blinks, white stays steady. The white wire is hooked up to the negative spade terminal on the coil and the red is hooked up to the positive. Is this the preferred way?

You got it correct. It will fire either way.
Both wires should flash with wires connected to terminal of coil. You are not firing.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Clubfed67

What is the part# for that spark tester and where is the best place to get one? You have been a world of help so far, I would have already given up without you and the other guys advice.

Hang in there. Maybe we can help you narrow this thing down. I like a challenge
I got mine at our local NAPA store. Let me look and see where else.
google OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester $17.77 . high but worth every penny of it.

[trig123]

Here is a picture of the bracket that holds ignitor . Make sure that orange and white wire coming from ignitor is connected real good to terminal on solenoid.

I did find that picture when looking for the video I made a few years ago.

When you get the spark tester you can wiggle some of these wire connectors and see what happens. You might get lucky. Stay far away from these ignition aftermarket parts .
I will see tomorrow if anybody I deal with has any of these OEM parts just in case you might need something. If I don't forget

[Clubfed67]

Got one on the way. Be here Saturday. Thx again.