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Old 08-21-2018, 08:02 PM   #11
beachguysc
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

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Originally Posted by joesam View Post
That looks like a lock washer on the obc stud. Is that a good idea? I would think a flat mating surface is better.
Yes. It is a stainless lock washer. I figured since I couldn’t tighten the bolt again the obc, That I would need a lock washer to tighten the lug between the two nuts. I was thinking that without it, the outer nut would just spin off, especially if the cable jostled back and forth a little. I am definitely open to better solutions. Thanks
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:23 PM   #12
joesam
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

I use double nuts (like on the motor studs). Depending on how much those washers are compressed it strikes me that you may have inadvertently inserted a resistor (of sorts) into that cable.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:40 PM   #13
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

It sure looks like a bad solder joint/cold solder joint to me. Whatever the case may be I would suggest getting a new set of cables before you wind up replacing more batteries.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:46 PM   #14
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

Just my 2 cents worth, but it looks like all the heat was generated at the lead terminal itself. In your pictures the lead appears to have melted and allowed the copper cable end to sink into the lead. While the heat shrink looks stretched, and the wire appears to have pulled back from full insertion, I don't see any melted insulation.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

The lugs are not the best size for Golf Cart batteries, the 3/8" lugs can move around the 5/16" battery studs and cause the nuts to get loose.

It must have got hot enough to melt the solder job on that termination.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:59 PM   #16
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

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The lugs are not the best size for Golf Cart batteries, the 3/8" lugs can move around the 5/16" battery studs and cause the nuts to get loose.

It must have got hot enough to melt the solder job on that termination.
Agreed! In college I took as an elective to my degree a NASA certified rework class. The first rule of soldering wire was that there must first be a solid MECHANICAL connection between the two wires before they can be soldered together. This is why the best connection method is to always crimp and solder for the highest reliability.

In this particular instance, it looks to me that the battery itself had an internal issue that was then compounded by a poor cable connection. JMHO
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Old 08-24-2018, 06:11 PM   #17
beachguysc
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Default Re: Melted battery terminal

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Originally Posted by HaulnA$$ View Post
Agreed! In college I took as an elective to my degree a NASA certified rework class. The first rule of soldering wire was that there must first be a solid MECHANICAL connection between the two wires before they can be soldered together. This is why the best connection method is to always crimp and solder for the highest reliability.

In this particular instance, it looks to me that the battery itself had an internal issue that was then compounded by a poor cable connection. JMHO
Update. I took the cable to a local alternator shop and the guy said my cable had been properly soldered(and still temporarily usable until I get a longer cable). It may have been an internal battery issue, but Im going to go ahead and give myself the blame for probably overtightening the nut on the terminal bolt. I also believe that the green cable is a little too short/thight and probably hastened the demise of the loose terminal bolt. I had forgotten to install the battery hold-downs for a few days and was going over some rough bumps.
I Ended up going to the local Trojan distributor and he gave me a new battery for less than retail and also a smoking deal on a pair of U1 35ah 12v batteries I’m going to run in parallel for my stereo.
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