0% Battery voltage on handheld

[2l8iwn]

I have a 2003 club car ds in my shop and it had a bad controller in it. I ordered a new controller. I tested A1, A2, F1, and F2 against the motor case to make sure i didnt have a short in the motor. Everything came back ok. Installed new controller and nothing. No click of the solenoid. Hand held shows both switches in the MCOR are working as expected. Key switch shows that is is working as normal. Tow switch is working as normal. Forward \ Reverse switch shows working as normal with buzzer in reverse. The only faults on the handheld are low battery voltage which shows 0. I was wondering is someone could give me some insight on where the voltage comes in to the controller that gives it the readout on the handheld. Pin 5 Light blue - off the obc is providing 48 volts to the controller with the charger unplugged - as normal. I am having a field day with this cart. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

[Fairtax4me]

Might check the pre-charge resistor on the solenoid. Maybe it's burned out? That resistor is often damaged if a controller fails.

[yamahag9er]

Does this cart have turn signals on it by any chance?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

"New" controller?

or "Rebuilt" controller? Seen this numerous times with rebuilt controllers.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

"New" controller?

or "Rebuilt" controller? Seen this numerous times with rebuilt controllers.

Ugh! Me too!!

[2l8iwn]

Controller is new and not a refurb. The precharge resistor does look as if it may have an issue. The plastic coating that was over it has melted away.

[2l8iwn]

no turn signals on the cart. i checked the temp of the resistor and it is getting up to about 106 with the cart in run and the key on.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by 2l8iwn

no turn signals on the cart. i checked the temp of the resistor and it is getting up to about 106 with the cart in run and the key on.

This indicates that there is something drawing power through the resistor. When the solenoid turns off (opens) it doesn't let power pass through. The purpose of the resistor is to let a small amount of energy get past the solenoid into the controller to keep the controller capacitors charged. Without a pre-charge resistor, the controller would receive a sudden inrush of power every time the solenoid clicked and let power through. This would severely shorten the life span of the controller. When a motor or controller fail and develop an internal short, they can develop a draw. When one of these components is trying to draw power while sitting still with the solenoid open, the only path that the power has is through the small resistor. The resistor can't handle this kind of load, so it overheats and melts. 99% of the time, this is due to a bad controller, but a short in the motor can cause it as well. In this situation, I would put the Tow/Run switch in the Tow position and disconnect the main positive and negative battery terminals, remove all four cables from the motor. Set your DVM to diode test/continuity setting and do a continuity test between the A1 and A2 posts of the motor. You should hear a beep from your meter, indicating a good connection. Repeat this test on the F1 and F2 terminals of the motor. You should also hear the beep. Once you've done these tests, test each terminal individually to the case of the motor to make sure there is no continuity there. If there is, you've got a short in the motor and the motor is causing you problems. If the motor checks out good, the controller is your issue.


EDIT: Just re-read your first post and realized you'd already tested the motor. In this case the controller is suspect.

[2l8iwn]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

This indicates that there is something drawing power through the resistor. When the solenoid turns off (opens) it doesn't let power pass through. The purpose of the resistor is to let a small amount of energy get past the solenoid into the controller to keep the controller capacitors charged. Without a pre-charge resistor, the controller would receive a sudden inrush of power every time the solenoid clicked and let power through. This would severely shorten the life span of the controller. When a motor or controller fail and develop an internal short, they can develop a draw. When one of these components is trying to draw power while sitting still with the solenoid open, the only path that the power has is through the small resistor. The resistor can't handle this kind of load, so it overheats and melts. 99% of the time, this is due to a bad controller, but a short in the motor can cause it as well. In this situation, I would put the Tow/Run switch in the Tow position and disconnect the main positive and negative battery terminals, remove all four cables from the motor. Set your DVM to diode test/continuity setting and do a continuity test between the A1 and A2 posts of the motor. You should hear a beep from your meter, indicating a good connection. Repeat this test on the F1 and F2 terminals of the motor. You should also hear the beep. Once you've done these tests, test each terminal individually to the case of the motor to make sure there is no continuity there. If there is, you've got a short in the motor and the motor is causing you problems. If the motor checks out good, the controller is your issue.


EDIT: Just re-read your first post and realized you'd already tested the motor. In this case the controller is suspect.

When i tested the motor i didnt check continuity from a1/a2 or f1/f2. i only checked from those posts to motor case. I will go back and check just to make sure.

[2l8iwn]

The old resistor did look suspect so i put on a new resistor but as soon as i connected the battery it started getting hot so i disconnected the battery.