Advice for installing batteries

[emac1211]

I'm not a handy guy at all, but I thought I was handy enough to install new batteries in my Club Car Precedent a few weeks ago. I took out the old ones and swapped them out for the new ones without problem, and I thought "Alright, this is pretty easy, I can do this!"

Well, then after a few uses, the golf cart shut down, and one of the batteries was clearly melted, and another one we were unable to get the cable off the post. The post just turned with the nut when we tried to loosen it. The cables were worn out and likely bad, and the guy from the battery store believed "whoever installed the batteries probably didn't tighten them well enough". He said he's never seen it before on a battery! Well, that person who screwed up was me.

And now I'm getting two new batteries that I need to install, and I'm honestly a bit nervous to do it because:
1. Batteries are expensive and I don't want to destroy anymore of them.
2. The last battery sparked at me a few times while trying to disconnect it and while trying to get the cable off it. Even after it was out of the golf cart and completely disconnected from anything, it sparked at me when I tried to get the cable off. I admit I had made contact with both the negative and the positive terminal by accident with the wrench. But either way, after getting sparks flung at me a few times, I'm a little shy of working on batteries anymore.

So how do I install these two new batteries without injuring myself or wasting anymore money on the golf cart? Please help!

[Htownblue]

Key off. Cart in tow. Disconnect the PACK POSITIVE and PACK NEGATIVE first from the battery “chain”. This ensures no voltage going to your controller.
Next disconnect the wires from the two batteries you are replacing.
Make sure that your batteries are connected in series which means the batteries are connected to THE OPPOSITE pole on the next battery in the series. Meaning positive terminal is connected to the NEGATIVE terminal on the next battery in the series and so forth and visa versa.
Do not over tighten the terminals. Snug but not tight, which usually means a 1/4 to 1/2 turn after the nut is hand tightened or snugged down against terminal.
Using terminal protectant is not necessary but is advised.

Others can give more explanation.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Htownblue is dead on. The only thing I can add is the CC directive for post tightening are 110in-lbs

[WalterM6]

The post just turned with the nut when we tried to loosen it

To me that means that you over tightened the nut and broke the bolt loose from its lead encasement. Get a torque wrench and set then to the correct torque of 110 in/lbs like Nole just said.

[LukeL]

Make sure your cables are decent as well. I prefer at least 4 AWG but if you are using thinner make sure there is no corrosion and no weak spots where heat can build up.

[Mooncarter]

What everybody above said.

If you don't have a battery strap get one. Makes it much easier.

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

What everybody above said.

If you don't have a battery strap get one. Makes it much easier.

Great call Moon. Forgot about that. Best 5 bucks I ever spent on one of those.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Htownblue

Great call Moon. Forgot about that. Best 5 bucks I ever spent on one of those.

So true HTB. I did my first couple of these without one. Like you said. Best 5 bucks I ever spent.

[ThreeCW]

Keep in mind that 110 inch-lbs is the same as 9 ft-lbs ... it is not very much torque.

Note that different batteries and various battery connections will have different torques values. Make sure that you are using the correct torque values for your battery make and connection type.

What battery make and connection type do you have?

Under-torquing or over-torquing your battery connection can lead to significant problems ... best to use a proper torque wrench to get it right this time.

Good luck with your project

[Fairtax4me]

Rule Number One: Don't touch a wrench or ANYthing metal across both terminals on a battery. A couple sparks wont hurt you, but if those sparks happen to ignite the hydrogen gas that can be present in a battery, that's a BIG kaboom and you're instantly covered in battery acid. Sulfuric acid. Wear safety goggles!! Use insulated tools, or if you don't have those, wrap the other end of your wrench or the handle of your ratchet with Electrical tape, or just about any other kind of heavy tape that will prevent metal to metal contact.
The biggest thing is to just make sure when you're working on cable connections to not get the other end of the tool near the other battery posts.

Second Rule: Negative First, Negative Last. The majority of automobiles, equipment, and gas powered golf carts are all Frame grounded. Which means the body structure, frame, chassis, any exposed metal parts of the vehicle are electrically connected to the negative of the battery. This means you should Always disconnect the battery Negative First because that eliminates the negative electrical connection to the battery.
If you try to disconnect the Positive first, you chance having the tool touch ANYTHING else that is metal and having it short out and arc weld itself to the battery post AND to the other metal part. A direct short like this will cause whatever tool you're using to turn into a glow stick, it will MELT and cause a fire and possibly explosion of the battery.

By disconnecting the Negative First, you remove the electrical connection of the frame and body to the battery, which makes it safer (not totally safe, but much much less likely to cause an issue) to disconnect the positive cable.

Always Disconnect the Negative First, Reconnect the Negative Last.