2012 Electric Precedent does not run

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

So I verified voltages on brown and blue wire at pin conector:

rocker on neutral - 12 v on brown & 45 v on blue
when activated to either forward or reverse - we got almost BPV on the activated side

same readings at rocker switch connections.

handheld was giving us correct throttle readings yesterday, then today no readings. same for F&R signal which remained off on handheld reading when activating one or the other. Now all of the sudden, we got F&R signal reading on handheld (when activated) and throttle giving us proper readings again and the car started running. would this be from the system being without use for so long? car had been stored for more than a year with bad batteries and no use.

The voltage on the wires should have been 0v when the switch was in Neutral.

You had about 3.0v less than pack voltage at the FNR center wire on the previous post and it would be impossible for the voltage at the Controller to be any higher than that.

If You have not charged the cart You may have bad sonic-welds in the path from the Tow/Run switch to the FNR, Controller, Key switch, OBC, etc...

Where did You connect the meter negative probe when you measured the -12v on the brown wire?

You should also repeat the voltage readings with wires disconnected from the FNR in case something inside the FNR switch is causing a short.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The voltage on the wires should have been 0v when the switch was in Neutral. Correct. I was not getting 0 volts at the 16 pin connector blue or brown wire when switch was in neutral either.

You had about 3.0v less than pack voltage at the FNR center wire on the previous post and it would be impossible for the voltage at the Controller to be any higher than that.

If You have not charged the cart You may have bad sonic-welds in the path from the Tow/Run switch to the FNR, Controller, Key switch, OBC, etc... cart had been left outdoors without being used or moved in probably 1.5-2 years

Where did You connect the meter negative probe when you measured the -12v on the brown wire? to main BP negative. The hyphen did not mean negative 12 volts.

You should also repeat the voltage readings with wires disconnected from the FNR in case something inside the FNR switch is causing a short.

you mean check voltage of the brown/blue wires disconnected from rocker switch? or you mean the orange?

[Sergio]

Check all three wires, the orange wire should have pack voltage, not 3v less.

The brown and Blue wires should have 0v.

A cart that was left outside could have bad sonic-welds if there was enough moisture in the harness.

[alchemy]

just fixed my FNR switch yesterday (2013 carryall 6). It was touchy getting R to connect or switch on then it just quit connecting all together. I removed it and it came apart. I took it in the house and looked closely and could not for the life of me figure how it could work and that something must have fell out when it came apart. I went back out and looked around and sure enough I found a 1" metal "see-saw" and a white plastic piece with what is like a sprung brush. After figuring how they went and putting it back together it works perfectly, connects solid every time, is "sturdier," and the click is louder. The whole problem I'm sure is that the plastic tab clips on the side of the case are pretty soft and open easy and the case just comes apart slightly to where you don't really notice but when it's right I think you hear a snap where the case itself snaps together. Being loose like that the "see saw" may have turned out of place and it would need taken apart anyway.
I only needed to read continuity on mine but I could read Volts on mine that works if that would be helpful.

edit: there was another guy here in some thread with the same problem if I could find it again.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Check all three wires, the orange wire should have pack voltage, not 3v less.

The brown and Blue wires should have 0v.

A cart that was left outside could have bad sonic-welds if there was enough moisture in the harness.

Sergio sorry for the delay. We verified and voltages are now correct. Not sure what happened or how it started functioning properly. I guess it could happen again. Orange wire read 50v and 0v on the other two wires.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Check all three wires, the orange wire should have pack voltage, not 3v less.

The brown and Blue wires should have 0v.

A cart that was left outside could have bad sonic-welds if there was enough moisture in the harness.

Hey Sergio! We are back again with same issue! Will be needing to take a look at those sonic welds. Do you recommend any specific to start with?

[Sergio]

Yes, there is a sonic weld where the power from the Tow/Run switch splits off to the FNR Orange center wire, it is SW_6 in the diagram below.

It should be located on the thicker part of the harness starting from where the FNR harness comes off the main harness.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, there is a sonic weld where the power from the Tow/Run switch splits off to the FNR Orange center wire, it is SW_6 in the diagram below.

It should be located on the thicker part of the harness starting from where the FNR harness comes off the main harness.

Thank you Sergio. Will look for that and let you know. We are awaiting Tropical Storm Dorian to pass. We should be able to get on this on Thursday-Friday.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, there is a sonic weld where the power from the Tow/Run switch splits off to the FNR Orange center wire, it is SW_6 in the diagram below.

It should be located on the thicker part of the harness starting from where the FNR harness comes off the main harness.

Sergio thanks for the help. Sonic weld was intact. This was stretched to a six passenger. When verifying the orange wire, it had been pinched by the stretch kit and corroded close to the front passenger side. Luckily we also found the brown cable almost in same condition so were able to repair both. Now were are putting everything back together. It should operate fine. Will keep you posted.