2003 club car ds won’t move

[Chandler1991]

Hello I’m trying to figure out my club car ds that won’t move. New batteries, 2 gauge cables, forward reverse switch, solenoid. Tried testing controller from battery last negative to m- on controller volts were 28v and maxed out at 50v with pedal depressed

[BBBHC]

I'm no guru when it comes to trouble shooting a non moving gc, but I can help get things started until the gurus come along.

Was it working fine before the new parts were put in?
Before you started taking parts out and putting new parts in, did you put the car in tow mode?
What batteries did you put in and what is the pack voltage?

This information will help the gurus point you in the right direction. Posting pictures of your wiring and install of your new parts will be helpful as well.

[Chandler1991]

The cart worked fine before batteries took a crap last year. I had to replace all the thing mentioned because cables were so bad and from dirty and not well contact melted some ends etc. pack voltage is 49.8v it has 6 8v batteries. I replaced controller 14 months ago some times it’ll try and go but won’t diode on solenoid will get so hot it’ll smoke with key off in neutral

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lets make sure you do not have a shorted motor issue.

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap F1/F2 jumpers to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

[Chandler1991]

Will try

[movin-on]

Is the diode or resistor on the solenoid getting hot...

[Chandler1991]

Yes the diode on the resistor gets so hot it smokes with key off in neutral I have to take last positive off or it’ll melt

[Chandler1991]

Nole fan 4 ever I have s1 s2 a1 a2 when I do the continuity test every thing beeps I see no resistance between s1 and s2 and with every thing jumped and 12 bolts on it wheels don’t turn. It’s a 48v cart

[nickdalzell1]

if the resistor is getting cherry glow red it's likely a capacitor inside the controller has failed.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Chandler1991

Nole fan 4 ever I have s1 s2 a1 a2 when I do the continuity test every thing beeps I see no resistance between s1 and s2 and with every thing jumped and 12 bolts on it wheels don’t turn. It’s a 48v cart

When you go from S1 to A1 or S1 to case or A1 to case and you get "Beep" from any of them then you have a short in the motor and it is going to ground. And the Ohms/Resistance test would not be applicable here as I thought you had a Sepex motor but you have a Series wound motor.

The short in the motor is creating a draw and since your solenoid is open, the current is trying to pass thru the resistor and heating it up.

Need to pull your motor and inspect it internally.