Club car 48V DS moves with slight pedal pressure

[fatjusto]

Gday,

I have recently bought a Club car 48V DS which was running perfectly fine until the other day went to drive and it cut out.

I charged the batteries and when I turned it on it does the same will drive for a second in both forward and reverse then cut out.

As the batteries were 5yrs old I replaced them and made sure fully charged.
Now it is still doing the same thing.

After turning on and off etc. I have worked out I can move the car forward and reverse with ONLY light pedal pressure. Once I press it down , however, it dies and cant move it anymore even with light pedal pressure unless I turn it off and wait a bit .

Wondering were should I start?

Cheers
Justin

[NoleFan4Ever]

What year and model cart do you have? That could be a myriad of things, but it sounds like a broken resistor on a v-glide/MSP. If you have an MCOR it will be something else.

[fatjusto]

Ahh ok will check the model etc. out tonight.

I know it was the model before the change in body shape

It has a MCOR

[NoleFan4Ever]

Test the MCOR output by doing this. With the batteries connected, key switch Off, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to ~0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or more when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR potentiometer..... Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors If those readings are good, we will check the controller next.

[fatjusto]

Ok thanks for the reply

I have checked and it’s a 2010 DS Electric IQ (48-volt)

Doing the test you asked at the MCOR starts at 0.32 and goes up to 4.6V so I’m assuming this is good .

[NoleFan4Ever]

Test the controller output like this. With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground). Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc with the accelerator pedal fully pressed.

For all this testing to be valid, your cart must be in the "Problem" condition. In other words, if it is intermittent, test it when it is not running.

[fatjusto]

Ok so I’ve jacked up the back wheels and run the cart. When not under load seems to run longer before cutting out.

Anyways it starts of increasing up to around 15v at best but then cuts out and no voltage measuring. Sometimes goes to 3V Max then cuts out

[fatjusto]

Also, should I be hearing the solenoid clicking? It seems to be only clicking at the MCOR?

[movin-on]

Put your meter on the small terminals of the solenoid...Key on in forward press the go pedal...You should see pack voltage on the meter...If you do replace the solenoid...If you don't more testing is needed..The slight movement you have is probably the capacitors in the controller discharging...

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by fatjusto

Also, should I be hearing the solenoid clicking? It seems to be only clicking at the MCOR?

That is definitely a solenoid or input problem. Test the solenoid and see if you have lost the Pos or Neg inputs.