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Old 06-15-2018, 11:08 PM   #1
PhillipNichols
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Default 2004 Club Car Ds

Hey guys,

I am working on a 48v 2004 Club Car DS, serial number of (aq0421-396570). The cart will take off a like rough, move for a few seconds then stop. I am wondering if this sounds like a bad micro? Motor? Speed sensor?

Thing I have done
The cart has brand new batteries that has a resting voltage of 50.92.
The controller was just refurbished by FSIP.
Test voltage under load 49.32 (for the short time it runs)

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:00 AM   #2
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

That is an IQ cart. Usually a speed sensor will not stop the cart, just goes into "Limp" mode. Test the speed sensor by (with the carts Run/Tow switch in the "Run" position and brake Off) pushing the vehicle manually forwards or backwards for several feet. The "Roll-Away" brake should become active and you would feel resistance to the movement along with multiple beeping from the reverse buzzer. If you do not get beeping and resistance, your speed sensor has failed and needs to be replaced.

If that is good test the MCOR to see if it has a bad microswitch by unplugging the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed.

Then if it continues test the MCOR output by placing the Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (Ė) probe on packs main Negative post and the red
(+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR.

If after all that it is not identified, we can do some test on your solenoid and more...
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:58 AM   #3
PhillipNichols
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

Thanks for the response.

I completed the three tests and all tests passed. I did have resistance when pushing the cart F and B.
Jumping the blue and green wire of the MCOR has no effect.
The MCOR yellow wire had a smooth increase up to 4.65vbc.

I did notice, when holding the pedel all the way to the floor I hear a noise from the controller area. Almost like it wants to move.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:56 AM   #4
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

And you did hear beeping when you were rolling it B & F, correct?

Ok. lets check this now... With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground). Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~36/37vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed.

If good, we will do some motor testing as you ~may have worn out brushes or an issue inside the motor.
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Old 06-16-2018, 05:11 PM   #5
PhillipNichols
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

Correct. I do hear the beep when moving the cart F & B.

I just performed the test you provided and my voltage reading were a little different. My starting voltage is 3.24 v and it gradually goes up when the pedel is pressed. BUT, the voltage drops and I can hear the motor try to turn over.
The voltage comes back then the motor tryís to spin again and I lose the voltage. This happens a few times before it just wonít do anything. I believe the controller goes into a safety mode or itís just to much resistance and over heats the controller.

Itís looking like something in the motor like you hinted at. Is there a way to test the motor for a brush problem?
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:09 PM   #6
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

Wow! Now it sounds more like a controller problem as those readings are the output from the controller "to" the motor...... If they get erratic or fall off, it usually points to a controller issue (rebuilt or not) as the controller is telling the motor what to do, not vice-versa. BUT, if the brushes loose contact, then the controller may see the break in current flow and cycles off - I have just never had that happen before.

Lets test the motor for issues and then if good, do a manual test run on it. Do this first: Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).
Now get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct and as stated above, then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts (or 16 or 24) positive (+) to A1/F1 and 12 (or 16 or 24) volts negative (-) to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long, but you do need to run it long enough to determine if there is a brush problem.

If the motor runs fine, it is a controller issue, if the motor hesitates or runs and shuts down, etc. then you have a motor problem and it is probably in the brushes. Never know for sure until you open it up and inspect it.
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:55 PM   #7
WalterM6
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

How about the solenoid. Do you hear it activate when you step on the throttle?
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:14 PM   #8
PhillipNichols
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep).........Beep
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)..........Beep
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep).....No Beep
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)....No Beep
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)....No Beep

F1 and F2 1.6 ohms

I use 16 volt and the motor spins fine.

Could it be a faulty solenoid? Or anything with OBC? I just got the controller back from FSIP 3 days ago. Just want to rule everything out before making the call to FSIP.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:59 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

How long did you run the motor? A minute or more to see if it quit I assume..... And the resistance is just a little high.

The OBC has a lockout circuit, but it is not active as you are getting the reverse buzzer and the car does move. For the solenoid, the Neg (-) comes from the controller after a host of Pos (+'s) are satisfied (key on, run/tow in Run, micro-switch, etc.

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
Test the solenoid like this (and leave the small leads attached to the solenoid during this test):
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc

If you are losing anything it would be at step #2, BUT, when the controller shuts down, you are going to loose the Neg (-).
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:49 PM   #10
PhillipNichols
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Ds

Ok. I ran the motor for about 45 sec. probably not quite a minute. I stopped it and then tried it again to make sure it wasn’t a one time deal.

As for the solenoid test
1. Blue wire. I am getting 50.4v without pressing the pedel. When I push the pedel down I hear the motor trying to run and the voltage stays goes to 49.6. This wire has constant voltage at all times.

2. Blue and White wire. It’s working like you said. No voltage at first. Press the pedel and I get 50.2 volts
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