Ezgo diagnostics

[scottyb]

EZGO Diagnostic testing for Ezgo Solid State speed Control Systems

Testing of the EZGO ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - SERIES & PDS

(NON DCS)
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
PLACE THE REAR OF THE CART SECURELY ON BLOCKS OR JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage and the amount of POWER TO THE CONTROLLER -
NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.
Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.



ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS
ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground.
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post.
Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)
Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud.
The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.
DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.
Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER
Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward.
Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.
If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts.
If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty.
Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
1.



MOTOR UNWANTED CONTINUITY TEST
The following tests can assist in troubleshooting.
Disconnect all wires to the motor and label them
Make sure none of the terminals are grounded to the motor or cart (F1 terminal to motor frame) You should have continuity present between F1 and F2 and A1 and A2 but NOT BETWEEN ANY A and ANY F Terminal.
If any of these test fail, the motor will not operate correctly.

[dock98]

scottyb.i vote this becomes a sticky.good post.i copied it for the wife's toaster.thanks.

[scottyb]

Dock it still needs work, I posted it here so Roady could work on it when he gets time...... It's not all Gospel Yet

[dock98]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Dock it still needs work, I posted it here so Roady could work on it when he gets time...... It's not all Gospel Yet

good enough for a start.more than i had b4.thanks again for sharing your toaster expertise.

[roady89]

Gonna have to gimme a bit. I have 1000 things going on right now.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by roady89

Gonna have to gimme a bit. I have 1000 things going on right now.

1001

[scottyb]

bump

[scottyb]

bump

[roady89]

umm...this was COPIED a week ago.

Check ez

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by roady89

umm...this was COPIED a week ago.

Check ez

What?
I have a question about the pds controller diagnostics? When does it tell you the controller is faulty?