Reclocking G2 axle installed in G1 for better clearance?

[honkeytonk_man]

I am in the process of swapping a clone into my G1. I have a home built 8" lift on this cart already. Pictured is a G2 rear with G1 Axle tubes bolted on. The axle tubes have been rotated one bolt hole forward clocking the clutch up. I like how much clearance this leaves for the clutch but Im worried about lubrication. Do you think the rear will be starved for lube with this orientation? Should I orient the rear in the normal way and just dent my swing arm in like everyone else?

[wmedeiros]

When I did mine I just placed some washers under the 2 front mounting
bolts just enough for the pully to pass the frame.

[sho305]

The secondary hits? I thought only the primary did.

[honkeytonk_man]

Yeah the outer sheave ends up just barely touching the swingarm frame with the axle clocked normally. I'm considering using some automotive rear axle wedges like people use to adjust pinion angle on lifted trucks to just move it a few degrees up

[gray horse]

I put 1" aluminum spacers between the axle and the swingarm. Gave me just enough clearance.

[smokindawg]

Honkeytonk, I did the same thing when I installed the same setup in my G1. As you said with the G1 tubes on the G2 rear differential the driven clutch would contact the frame.

Even after denting it was close and you couldn't get the belt on and off. I first used spacers like others but the original bolts are just a bit short for my liking.

I ran the cart this way for a while with an 8hp briggs in it using the original clutch. It worked fine but then I got a 25hp Kawasaki V-twin to install.

When I changed the motor I pulled the tubes back off the differential and rotated it like you did and liked the added clearance and it also moves the clutch up out of the way for deep water. (Still gets wet though) I at first was worried about the lubrication in the rear end, but remember reading somewhere, a post about just such a thing. With the gears spinning, as long as they are in the gear oil, the rear will lubricate as it should.

I also have a factory made side by side that has the clutch output shaft even higher and it works fine and has for about `800 hours.

I've run my cart the same way as you for a while now even taking it on a couple 20 mile round trip rides with no ill effects that I know of. The only downside is that checking the fluid and making sure you put the correct amount in when you change it could prove difficult. I may work on some type dip stick to check it. If not leaking though, it should be fine.

Another thing I thought I'd mention. When I first built my lift the angle on the swing arm was pretty extreme. (I have about 12" of lift I built) and it worked fine with no problems.

I don't think you'll have a problem running yours that way, but if your worried about it then just do as others and install spacers. You'll need longer bolts though.

[sho305]

The cradle frame I see. When I put my clones in G9s I kept the stock mounts, in that they lay low with a bracket that comes up to the block so it has clearance to the cvt. But if the cart was not lifted the engine would be too high. The stock G9 engine actually hangs the pan below the mounts while the clone does not, though I lowered the front mount to level it, the crank is still higher than stock but it just fits the stock belt. I ground a groove in the block near the oil drain because the shifter was rubbing on it lol. The cylinder almost hits the governor shaft I can just get my finger in there.

[honkeytonk_man]

Smokindawg, thanks for the reply. Nice to hear someone has tried this without I'll effect. How much lube are you running with your rear clocked up?

[smokindawg]

As for the amount of lube....... I filled mine to the check plug before I changed the angle of it. Just find out how much is supposed to go in it and go with that. I'm actually running a synthetic that I had left over from the Nissan Titan I used to have. It's been in there over a year now at this point and I'm not sure how many miles I've put on the cart.