Driven Clutch Spring Preload / Assembly

[KRAZYMATT]

What is the procedure to load the tension on the spring for the driven clutch. Had one that was locked up so I took it apart to free it up. Wasn’t able to note how it was before disassembly as it sprung apart with a few taps once the snap ring was off. I plan on reassembling it with the stock spring. I know the aftermarket torque spring doesn’t require anything special but I am using the stock directional spring. I searched here and couldn’t find much info.... it has stock green spring.

[Fairtax4me]

The moveable sheave needs to be turned 1/3 to 1/2 turn in the direction of normal clutch rotation. So if it's clockwise driven, the sheave should be turned clockwise. If it's counter clockwise clutch, the sheave should go counter clockwise. Turn the sheave and hold it while pressing the helix back onto the center shaft. I find that a large c-clamp or pair of wide jaw vice grips helps with holding it. Once the helix is installed slowly release the sheave so it sits against the slides.

[KRAZYMATT]

Thanks, this is what I did but didn’t seem like it was enough or right... I put it together without twisting it at all at first. The cam wasn’t even in contact with the ramps so I redid it with a 1/3 turn or so so that the cam was held against the ramps in the direction of rotation. I used a large arbor press and a cut pvc cap. Like the one they send with the torque springs for installation. Thanks again for the info.

[Springbok]

I used this thread for guidance tonight to swap out a 1997+ green spring (CW) for a 1996-earlier white spring (CCW) into a brand new Club Car OEM driven clutch to go on my 1990 Club Car.

When the driven clutch is laying face down on the table for re-assembly, you turn the helix clockwise (and the sheave then would move counterclockwise, as stated earlier). I was initially confused and turning the helix counterclockwise, and kept wondering why my helix points kept pushing up against the wrong side of the buttons...until I read Fairtax's reply again.

In order to set the preload, I put the spring tabs in the middle holes of the sheave and helix, then turned the assembly around so that the keyway hole in the center shaft and the keyway hole in the helix were directly opposite each other (12:00 and 6:00). Then I clamped the sheaves to the table and turned the helix around clockwise until the keyway holes matched, then I tapped it down with a rubber hammer and then a wood block to get the helix all the way down so I could re-set the snap ring.

I had intentions of making a video of the spring swap, but it was my first spring swap and preload, and I had some issues with one of the snap rings (my snap ring tool was not up to the job, too small) and ended up not filming the rest. Plus I wasn't sure if I preloaded it correctly.

But I then went for test drive up my road, up and down a few hills, and everything went fine.