Controller Programming

[Canuck2400]

Hello again everyone, first of all I would like to thank everyone who helped me the problems I have had with my cart, almost all the wrinkles are out of it. There are 2 outdtanding items, the F&R rocker switch still has power going to all the contacts on the back of the switch which causes it to move in reverse when switch is in the neutral position— forward and reverse work as they should. The second item to clear up is programming the controller— the cart goes like heck in reverse ( although I have it set to 35% if forward speed) and in forward, not as fast, and almost stops on a slight grade ( maybe 10%), I was hoping someone could advise as to what the settings should be —- it’s a 2007 EZGO pds 36V with an Alltrax XCT400 controller with a 400 amp solenoid. Any help would be appreciated—— Thanks

[scottyb]

I bet one problem is related to the other. Disconnect the top and bottom wires from the PDS rocker switch and test the switch function. There should be no continuity between the center pin and the top or bttm pin unless the switch is in F or R and then only between the F or R pin - never between all 3 pins.
If the switch is good the errant power reading is coming in on the switch wires... Hmmm ? How can that be Johnnie B?

[Canuck2400]

Thanks, I’ll go check that now

[Canuck2400]

I checked the switch on the cart and one I bought last year here are the results. The one on the cart Switch in
Forward position — F pin 0.L
— R pin 0.00

Reverse position — R pin 0.L
— F pin 0.00
The readings on the new switch are the same as the readings noted above
Thanks

[cgtech]

Are you checking for voltage, or ohms?

[Canuck2400]

Ohms

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Canuck2400

Ohms

0.00 ohms? Not continuity, but ohms? I'm not certain my Fluke probes are that low?

EDIT: Just confirmed, they are not. I ain't gonna check all probes/leads, but just checking whether you are accurately reporting what you have going on.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Canuck2400

I checked the switch on the cart and one I bought last year here are the results. The one on the cart Switch in
Forward position — F pin 0.L
— R pin 0.00

Reverse position — R pin 0.L
— F pin 0.00
The readings on the new switch are the same as the readings noted above
Thanks

Looks like you've got which switch terminals and rocker position mixed.
When the top of the rocker is pushed in (FWD), the center terminal (Grey wire) connects to the bottom terminal (Green wire) and when the bottom of the rocker is pushed in (REV) the center terminal connects to the top terminal (Orange wire).

Taking that into consideration, both switches look okay, but you need to check both top and bottom terminals when in Neutral to make sure there isn't any contact to either the top or bottom terminals when there shouldn't be.

If the F/R switch checks out good, measure the voltage on the three wires that go to it when they are disconnected from the switch.

When the Run/Tow switch is in Run, you should have battery pack voltage on the grey wire only. If the is voltage on the either of the other two wires (Green and Orange), then there is something wrong in the wiring or the controller.

Also, please verify that the cart goes Forward when the top of F/R rocker is pushed in. (If the cart direction and F/R don't match, the controller will be in the reduced power mode while in Forward and full power in Reverse. - swapping F1 and F2 cables at controller fixes that issue if it exists)

[Canuck2400]

Great—— I tried another switch —- no difference, put the old switch back on, now I’m not getting power to the controller, I’m ready to give up on this thing

[Canuck2400]

Thanks Yurtle —- my mistake, I thought continuity was ohms—- I just checked the wires as requested and got about the same readings, I’m doing something wrong—- the grey wire when disconnected reads .1 volts—-the orange wire shoes 0 and the orange jumps all over. Just to make sure I had the setting right, I checked the pack voltage and it is 37.7 v. The continuity I had set for ohms